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Tech letters for October 1, 2002
Edited by John Stevenson
Confounded by carbon fiber? Need to sound off about superlight stuff? Tech letters is the forum for your gear-related questions and opinions. We'll attempt to answer all questions that don't require a PhD in astrophysics or industrial espionage.
Send your emails to Cyclingnews' tech desk
Pedal & shoe suggestions
Squealing brakes
Road Tire Tech
Upgrading an Old Bike
Campag Hiddenset problems
Creaking cranks
Using Triple STI For Double
More Sizing Mystery!
CN-10 cable cutter
Koobi PRS
Pariba Pro-Course
Shimano XTR
Specialized S1
Specialized Pro Road Shoe
Pedal & shoe suggestions
From Richard Santiago
I just bought a Cannondale 2003 R600, I need to get pedals and shoes. I typically ride 35-50 miles on hilly courses. I am 50 yrs. old and weigh 190. Can you make some suggestions in a mid-price range?
Squealing brakes
From Gavin Lee
Got a problemo with squealing brakes. I've got Avid SD5 V-brake calipers with the standard pads that came with the 2002 Giant XTC SE-2. I recently purchased a pair of Mavic CrossMax (non UST) that come with a ceramic braking surface. On light brake applications, no squealing. But on heavier applications, the squeal is so loud that it attracts attention 100m away!
Been to 3 reputable bicycle shops, and the advice has ranged from simply adjusting the toe in/toe out of the standard pads, changing the pads to Shimano XTR Ceramic brake pads, and even buying a new set of Avid Arch Rival calipers.
Being a student at the moment, I am looking for the most economical way of getting rid of the brake squealing problem.
Ceramic braking surfaces are notorious for this, and there's often no cure. The first thing I'd try is different pads, as that's something you can experiment with fairly cheaply, but the ultimate solution may be to get the wheels rebuilt with non-coated rims.
Road Tire Tech
From Carlos C. Cruz
Are there any advantages of using a 20mm front tire and a 23mm rear tire? Does anybody in the pro peloton do this?
You'd save a tiny amount of weight and it would be fraction better aerodynamically, but to be honest it sounds like jive to me.
Upgrading an Old Bike
From Chris Child
I'd like to get your opinion on something.
I have an old Cannondale CAAD3 that I use as my second bike. The original Shimano 105 components are beginning to show signs of wear and tear after years of dependable use. The frame appears to be in good shape; I don't recall having a serious crash on it.
My question is this: Is this frame worth upgrading, say with Ultegra components, especially crankset, rear derailleur and cassette, or is my money going to be better spent investing in a new machine?
Chris, it depends. A complete set of replacement components often ends up costing more than a new bike because dealers make thinner margins on complete bikes than on accessories, and bike manufacturers buy components in their thousands, bringing the price down. In the long run, this is an expensive way to upgrade. However, if your CAAD3 has sentimental value, or just happens to fit you perfectly, then it may well be worth hanging on onto. Some things are more important than money!
Campag Hiddenset problems
From Phil E Smith
Has anybody experienced internal headsets machined for campag's hiddenset headset shaking loose. I have a persistent problem with this occurring every 3 to 4 rides out? The steerer is of the 1 1/8 carbon variety used in conjunction with Deda oversize bars and stem. I suspect the set-up is somehow rattling loose despite the use of loc tight on the stem steerer clamp bolts and the top cap, as opposed to the bearing races settling in after being packed with grease. Any solutions/suggestions?
Creaking cranks
From Peter
I have a Giant XTC NRS 3 on which I have now completed about 3500k in desert kind of conditions. Recently the cranks started creaking. I have tightened them to 36lb/ft but they still creek immediately and after say a 1 hour ride they need to be tightened a little more. Does this mean that the alloy cranks are crushing slightly each time I tighten them. Or is it simply the bolts slackening a little. If so would Locktite work on the studs? The cranks are SR MD 304 and the BB Shimano UN52.
Peter, first, stop tightening your cranks after every ride! That's a good way to drive them further up the bottom bracket taper and eventually crack them.
Without examining your bike it's impossible to say why it's creaking, but it could be anything from a loose bottom bracket cup to a crack in the frame. A thorough service is almost certainly called for.
Using Triple STI For Double
From Gary Gromet
Could I successfully use a triple Dura-Ace STI with 38/54 and 12/27?
Yes and no. If you use the Dura-Ace triple front derailleur, then the triple STI should shift a double just fine. However, I don't think there's such a thing as 38t ring to fit a Shimano road crankset, so you're then into using, say, old-style 110/74mm pitch MTB crank and aftermarket chainrings. How well such combinations shift is often a matter of luck. [Update October 2: Half the world has emailled to point out that SR, Sugino and TA all make 38t rings to fit the 130mm Shimano bolt pattern.]
More Sizing Mystery!
From Michael Dimkich
I'm an injured runner (i.e. very rookie cyclist!) who is confounded by bike fit. I'm the new owner of a 56cm (center-center) Look (I'm a JaJa fan) which, I've been told by my cycling pals, seems to fit me well :I'm about 1.75m tall with an 85.5-86cm inseam and was fitted by a very low-key shop with a good local rep.
However, I keep reading stats on various Tour riders who are about my size and they *all* (except Lance) seem to ride rather small frames (52-54cm) and this includes some riders on the very same bike I own. Now it's got me worried, am I on a way too big bike? The plumb line hits the right places, the front axle is obscured by the handlebars when in riding position, I'm not "bunched up" or too stretched, Greg LeMond's method puts me on a 55.75cm frame, and, hell, the thing is actually rather comfortable. Can you guys tell me why it seems I have a bigger bike than the rest of the world?
tAlso, when I'm doing long climbs, I have trouble riding in a smooth "straight" line as I tend to "wobble" somewhat, especially as I push harder. Is this a handling problem resulting from my "big" bike, or is it just my basic inexperience at bike handling/maintaining balance. Sorry for such a wordy and rookie question!
Thanks (and I though sizing running shoes was hard!)
Mike, I also ride a bike that's too big for me by modern standards, but aside from the weight issue, what really matters is that the pedals, saddle and handlebars are all in the right places. If they are, then the bike fits and everything else is aesthetics.
CN-10 cable cutter #1
From Patrick Hartigan
Let me throw the full weight of absolute agreement behind the import of your review.
A quality cable cutter is a must have. I have been using the cutter previous to this model for years now and have never had a frayed end to speak of. I bought this tool at a time when, really, its quality outshined the rest of my gear (including the bike I was riding!) and now that everything else has come up to its level it continues to perform flawlessly.
I was glad to read your review. Job well done!
CN-10 cable cutter #2
From Tony Whitney
I have the earlier model and it's just an outstanding tool. After years (decades even!) of struggling with pliers, the Park tool was an absolute godsend. My advice to any cyclist trying to build up a good tool kit is to get this tool first. You'll never regret it. I have a full set (almost) of Park tools and although they're expensive, they are the best. Like other cycling fans, I get to fix neighbour's bikes too and having these tools almost makes a pro of me. One last word - never EVER buy cheap tools of any kind, It's just throwing money away.
CN-10 cable cutter #3
From Ellen Kast
You forgot to mention wearing safety glasses when you cut cables. The greatest likelihood for eye injuries at a bike shop occurs when the mechanic pops a cable with one of these tools. We know someone who had a cornea transplant due to this type of injury. Mention the safety glasses and it's a good article to me!
Good point!
Koobi PRS #1
From Chuck Barthel
I really enjoy your web site. I have a question about your observations of the Koobi PRS saddle. I bought one after reading your review and noticed when I tried to install it that the saddle rails are spread to far apart to fit my seat post clamps. I also had purchased a new Thomson elite seat post and I the PRS has the same rail spacing problem with the Thomson post. So, I measured from outside rail to outside rail at the zero setback mark on the rails of my original seat and the PRS. My original seat is 50 mm. The PRS is 55 mm. This extra 5 mm means the that spacing is a good 1/2 of a rail with too wide. I sent an e-mail to Koobi, but was wondering if you had similar issues with the seat. Also what seat post did you use when you tested the seat. I am sure the Koobi saddle will be great.
Maybe this one was just manufactured wrong.
Tester Tony Hawke says he had no such problem, and neither did I when the PRS was on my bike. It's possible you got a bad sample, though we've seen planty of saddles than needed to be stretched or squeezed to get them to fit a seat post and it doesn't seem to harm them.
Koobi PRS #2
From Valoo Valoo
I don't have one of the new Koobi's, but I ride on previous models and I love them. I tried one on my mountain bike and liked it some much I bought a Ti model for my road bike. There are lots of different brands out there which offer features and tricks to give you a comfortable ride, but I am so happy with my Koobi's that I don't have any interest in trying them. No "numb nuts" for me!
Koobi PRS #3
From Francis Norman
While I can't comment on the PRS, I have been riding a Koobi Silver on my road bike for the last couple of months and have found it a really comfortable. I have tried a few different conventional saddles, some of which were reasonably expensive, to try to find something I can ride for 3 hours plus and not feel like something has dropped off while on the road, and I can say that the Koobi is far and away the best.
I ordered the saddle via email from Koobi (if you order over the net, postage
is the standard Verisign and costs about $40 US for delivery to Australia, while
through emailing them, we got the costs down to about $11).
The original saddle shipped had a fault in the leather, and they sent me a replacement
as soon as I contacted them.
All in all I would fully endorse your comments regarding the company, good products and an excellent service.
Pariba Pro-Course #1
From Mark Jenkins
I don't have experience with the Pariba, but I have experience with Vredestein's high end tire, the Fortezza tri comp. It is desinged for high pressure inflation (limit 145), and I pump mine up to around 130PSI. My experience is similar -- the tire is very comfortable and sticky, and seems supple even at high pressure. Obviously they're very different tires than the Paribas -- they are both dual compound and slick.
On the other hand, Vittoria CXs, despite very high tpi, do not seem nearly so supple, even at 115. They're great tires, and very confidence inspiring, but the type of road feel they transmit is very different to that of the Vredesteins.
What other factors in tire design affect these perceptions?
Mark Jenkins
Pariba Pro-Course #2
From Steve Scarich
I know it is not easy to test durability, but it is a very important consideration. I used Paribas for awhile, but the durability was awful. I got less than 900 miles on the rear, and ~1200 on the front. I typically get twice that with Wolbers or Conti GP3000's.
The Paribas did ride great, though, almost as good as tubulars. But, for a high mileage rider like me (10K per year), they were not an economical choice.
Shimano XTR #1
From Aziz Rahman
Lovely new shininess; reminds me of the original XTR, which was beautiful.
That matt-grey finish wore off too quick, especially on the cranks. But once again, it doesn't work with anything else: when the whole world has finally gone six-bolt ISO disc fitting, Shimano have to be awkward again. With all their claims of weight saving, the new group appears to be heavier in many places, albeit with discs. I think most people with top-end machines will stay with individual components with the smaller, machine shop appeal of Hope, Race Face, DT Swiss, Middleburn etc. And if you want a sexy rear mech, look at what SRAM are offering... People prefer a more custom look at this level, full XTR is too 'factory racer'. And as for those shifters, I wonder how they'd get on with rocks? You definitely need quick, multi-sprocket downshifts for XC, for sudden climbs that spring up at you.
They've gone the wrong way with that one, I reckon. It all looks too gimmicky for the sake of having something new. Yes, the kids will all want it, but those with wise heads will stick with what they know and trust. "Oh look, I've bust me BB, and me local Halfords only have square UN72s, new XTRs will take six months to arrive, what do I do with a very expensive yet totally incompatible crankset?"
If it ain't broke... Shimano had a real winner with Deore; simple, functional, good looking, durable, reasonably lightweight, yet amazingly good value. Quality gear without breaking the bank. Top stuff. And fantastic flangeless hubs. One year, all weathers, no attention, smooth as a buffed and buttered baby's bum. I'm happy. So come on, Shimano, stop trying too hard, and concentrate on what works well. Innovation's fine, but not at the expense of common sense, and longevity. (Anyone got a right hand 7-speed RapidFire?) Now, where's them original XT V's? I want to frighten some Banshees...
Shimano XTR #2
From Bruno Abreu
The new XTR group seems to be fabulous!
For the past 7 years I expected Shimano to upgrade its top group while watching others like SRAM develop quite interesting and advanced products. But I knew that when Shimano would present its new XTR it would be like a bomb for the others. Just like when the first XTR was presented back in 1992 when I took my first look at the group in a bicycle Magazine, it was love at first sight. Now I'm in love again! I can't wait to install these brand new components in my bike. I hope these day will come soon...
Shimano XTR #3
From Howard Rosen
Thanks for the great article on the new 2003 XTR system. I just purchased a Specialized Enduro Expert and was waiting for the XTR switch. Now I'm not so sure I want to switch out the current components. Now I will have to wait and see what comes out and at what prices. Maybe a test ride or two will help.
Shimano XTR #4
From Daniel Schlage
Almost everything about the groupset sounds great bar the loss of the 46 tooth chainring on the cranks. I can't say I'm totally convinced about the Brakes/Shifters either. Anyone else thought about what will happen in a crash??? It will end up rather expensive if you smash a shifter/brake lever at the same time (Dura-Ace!). Also rapid rise was not very popular when it was introduced for the same reasons mentioned in the article, Shifting a number of cogs in a hurry to accommodate a climb seems more important than shifting down.
Shimano XTR #5
From Robb Gibson
The amount of technology that Shimano wedges into cycling components is astounding. That combined with a great aesthetic sense makes XTR just as beautiful as it is functional. Upon seeing the 2003 gear it seems as though they sacrificed a little of the aesthetic. 2002 XTR was the zenith of MTB componentry. It was finished and polished. 2003 gear looks like they handed it in when they weren't done with it. The crankset in particular. The crankarm is literally bolted to the rings.
It seems clunky, despite it's weight or performance advantages. In 2002 the integrated design was smooth. The rings mated nicely with the crankarms.
Now, I haven't ridden '03 XTR so I can't rate its performance. The shifting protocol seems a little confusing and unnecessary. Rapidfire Plus seems to work just fine. But then again remember what we said about road STI levers when they cam out? What seems like real XTR is the re-designed crankset and disk brakes. The crankset seems like it will turn out to be head & shoulders better than 2002 (even though it is a bit uglier). Light weight, powerful disk brakes? Typical XTR perfection. The rest of the material seems a bit unecessary.
Shimano XTR #6
From Brandon Emkes
From what I have gathered, the new XTR isn't going to make things much easier for the competitive cyclist at all. First of all, the shifter allows for multiple shifts when going to harder gears. Last time I went on a ride, I had no problem shifting one gear at a time while speeding downhill, however when I hit a steep short hill with 40kph of momentum, it is both nice and in some cases absolutely necessary to shift 3 or 4 gears quickly with one big shift.
Secondly, the total weight is greater. This isn't any indication of the quality, but when looking at some of the individual components, weight can be saved by going with older XTR parts. By using the M950 front derailleur and cassette, you save 37 grams. It looks like the 2003 front derailleur is beefier and stiffer, but why is the cassette 5 grams more? Without any information as to why the new cassette is better, the consumer is better off buying an older cassette for less money.
In addition to this, I must say that the new crankset and bottom bracket are impressive. Of course having never ridden on them, it is hard to say for sure, but they seem to have hit the nail on the head with this new set up. Not only is it much lighter, it seems to be stiffer altogether with the oversized bottom bracket and wider chainring bolt spacing.
Overall, I would consider upgrading parts of the bike with the new XTR, but to purchase the entire group for 15% more simply won't work for me. I have a feeling that consumers are going to be jumping all over "old XTR closeouts." The only thing more detrimental than a 15% price increase for this new system, is the 5-20% decrease in its aged competition, pre-2003 XTR.
Shimano XTR #7
From Rob Crawford
The new line looks and sounds quite exciting. I think the new ergonomically design of the shifting with be a love or hate it component. The levers look bulkier than the 950's. Great out of the box thinking on the BB and Crank set. I'm sure they will sell like hot cakes. Nice touch to the new finish. I'd love to see Shimano turn some attention to a new line of sealed cables to top off this groupo.
Shimano XTR #8
From Calvin Gauss
I ordered mine already! The lock ring on the disk is brilliant, painfully simply and light. Not sure about the Rapid Rise, but willing to try. I love the current XTR, but looking forward to this. How about a new Dura Ace group?
Shimano XTR #9
From Tom Pon
I think Shimano got the cable pull backwards on the rear derailleur. They had it right before. I think you have to have the cable pull towards the sprocket when you are going slow and putting in a lot for pedal force. For example, I ride a tandem and it bugs me that the cable pull on the front derailleur is 'backwards'. When shifting the front chainring to a smaller ring on a tandem going uphill, you have to slightly ease your pedal pressure in order for the shift to occur.
That is because the front derailleur spring is not strong enough to handle the shift under full pedal pressure so you end up loosing momentum. Now Shimano needs to switch the cable pull direction on both derailleur.
Shimano XTR #10
From Dave Barcus
Great review. I found it interesting that Shimano no longer is using the 46t outer ring, saying that it comes in response to the needs or preferences of recreational riders. This seems to be a slight shift in focus of a component group that has traditionally been designed for pure x-country racing. Is Shimano seeing a larger audience for this level of equipment or are they trying to entice a larger one?
Specialized S1 #1
From Dusty Bills
I have an S-1 for about three weeks now it is great, it's like a super cooler on your head. Especially during the last few days of our hot humid summer ( I live in West Virginia). It is light weight and I find the rear head adjustment makes for a very comfortable fit.
Specialized S1 #2
From Stephen Bennett
Not only is the S1 the best looking, best fitting, greatest helmet that Specilized have ever made, it works! In a criterium race in the UK last weekend I crash tested one.
The helmet was totally wrecked, but my head did hit the ground hard!
The helmet stayed in place, no doubt thanks to the great fit, and the Brain Trust 2 retention system. I shall be getting another one.
Specialized S1 #3
From Martin Knox
I own an S1 replacing my old "king cobra" model... it's light; airy and much more comfortable. The adjustable peak is great for people like myself who wear prescription glasses in the rain. It has been known to rain here in sunny Scotland.
Specialized S1 #4
From Jerome Jacobsen
I noted the writer (John Stevenson) mentioned a positioning problem with the Velcro for holding the pads in place. I don't have the S1, but another Specialized product, the King Cobra, in which the Velcro pads are movable. I was able to reposition them as needed.
Specialized S1 #5
From Luis Bernhardt
Being on a Specialized-sponsored regional team (Gregg's/Specialized), my comments may be taken with some reservations:
I've been using the 02 S1 for several months. You're right about elliptical. Without modifying any padding, the helmet fits my head quite snugly at the sides. I've left off the padding at the front, so I don't have a problem with the front vent. I like the way the straps can be locked down; I have adjusted my helmet so it will tilt no further forward than my Oakleys.
I have yet to ride this helmet thru a Vancouver winter, so I don't know how cool it will get. I don't notice that's it's any cooler than any other helmet I've worn.
I agree about the tension adjustment - it doesn't seem to make much difference how it's set. I crank mine all the way down do that I can lay the helmet flat with the "Brain Trust" all the way forward.
I'm a trackie; I just hate mountain bike helmets with the motocross-style visors. Although I've found the removable visor on the S1 to be useful in the rain, I still don't like its "Batman" configuration. I have trimmed the sides so it looks more like the peak on a cycling cap. I think there's money to be made if some company would make helmet visors shaped like bike cap peaks, and with trade team logos on them. I'd definitely buy a visor shaped this way with the Adidas stripes and advertising Deutsche Telekom...
Specialized S1 #6
From Tim O'Connell
I just bought an S1 to replace a Giro Boreas that I crushed in an accident. (It worked very well in the crash.) I have always liked the fit of Specialized helmets, because I have an oval shaped head too, but stopped buying them because their old Brain Trust system was poorly built and cracked within a month of purchasing it.
As with every helmet I had before, I threw into my duffle bag as I was packing for a trip, and when I pulled it out the Brain Trust was in pieces. Specialized would not warranty it, and essentially the helmet was useless. I finally had to duct-tape it after trying hot glue, epoxy and supper-glue.
Before bringing this one home I gave the new Brain Trust a good test, and it seams to be plenty flexible. It does have great ventilation, it's very light weight and I think it looks great. I have worn it for a couple of months now, and packed it in the duffle without any problems. The only downside is that it is a little pricey, but a helmet is one place I would never skimp.
Specialized Pro Road Shoe #1
From Sandy & Jon Kortebein
I don't ride the Pro Road Shoe, but I just bought a pair of the Specialized Sport Mtn Shoes, which uses the same "Body Geometry" Technology as the Pro Road. The first time I rode with them I knew instantly that I was onto something good. This Body Geometry stuff works! I could feel the effect of the Varus Wedge at work. The increased efficiency and power is obvious from the first pedal strokes. I am also surprised at how stiff even this entry level shoe is. I like these shoes so much I'm considering buying a pair of road shoes to match. Thanks so much for tipping me to these shoes!
Specialized Pro Road Shoe #2
From Paul Wright
I started using the Specialized Pro Road Shoe in mid June. I found the soles were thinner than my Shimano SH-221 shoes allowing me to lower my saddle slightly. I put in about 12 to 15 hours a week training and race about every weekend. I am not sure how many miles that translates into. The shoes have held up well through all kinds of weather. The "squishy" part at the heel of the sole is a nice touch. When standing/walking it adds considerable comfort and mitigates against slipping and falling ( a serious problem with my Diadora Trivex shoes). I would have expected this area to have worn out quickly, as it is so soft, but it has also held up well. As far as I can tell, the insoles have deformed very little. Though I have not done a long ride/race (100+ miles) since getting these shoes, I have not noticed the "hot spots" on my feet that I have gotten with every other pair of cycling shoes that I have owned. When these shoes are worn out, I would consider transferring the insoles to my Shimano shoes though I expect that the next new pair of cycling shoes I purchase will be Specialized Body Geometry shoes. I would say that the "Body Geometry" insoles are one of the nicest features of the shoes.
The shoes are also the most light weight shoes I have ever had.
Specialized Pro Road Shoe #3
From Michel van Musschenbroek
Something you did not mention- Toe Box.
I have a EE foot, with the added benefit of a high arch. These shoes have the best toe box I have worn since my lace up Adidas in the early 80's. The Italian brands, although sometimes great for eye appeal, are typically narrow. These shoes are great! The toe box is shapped more like a man's foot than a pointy Stilletto. I went through 4 pairs of shoes in 3 years because I could not find the perfect fit. I have had these for two years now, and still going strong!
I have recommended the shoes often.
Specialized Pro Road Shoe #4
From Mark Friedländer
For six months these shoes have liaised with my pedals and theirs is a happy union. The inner sole began as a topographic relief for a decent mountian stage, now mine have assumed a markedly flatter profile. (The same thing happened to my specialized MTB shoes.) I no longer get the "ahhh" feeling as my metatarsals bid each other adieu although I recognise that my feet are more spread than in other shoes I have tried. An excellent prospect but don't stand with your heels too close together around politically correct company!
Specialized Pro Road Shoe #5
From Rick Morse
I've been riding this shoe for about 10 months, and they are the most comfortable high end shoe I've owned, and I've owned 'em all from wood platform Duegis (where did they go?) to Sidi to Shimano all-carbon. These are the best. Took away some nagging knee pain I'd been fighting for a while and I agree with the non-carbon strap comments. More comfort equals happier and longer riding.
Specialized Pro Road Shoe #6
From Ralph Miller
Just had to let you all know that I bought a pair of these shoes about 3 weeks ago (brand new for $50 Aus) from a bike shop and I love them. I was sceptical as the bloke was telling me they were the top of the range, and for $50 I thought I had nothing to loose. Must agree though they need more... no some padding in the tongue.
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