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Tech letters for June 10, 2003 - Answers #1
Edited by John Stevenson
Confounded by carbon fiber? Need to sound off about superlight stuff? Tech letters is the forum for your gear-related questions and opinions.
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2004 Dura Ace
Auto degreasers
Bianchi/Campy upgrades
Bike Racks
Bottle mounts
These subjects were originally raised or last discussed in our last edition's questions or answers.
2004 Dura Ace
As a mechanical engineer (and avid racer) I fail to understand how the upgrade of Shimano from 9 to 10 speed 4 years after Campagnolo has anything to do with performance. The pros have been using 9 speed with just as much success as those with Campagnolo 10s. It is obviously a bit of marketing since Shimano have long realised that they do not have the edge in serviceability of equipment.
The fact that Campagnolo's designs have not changed much recently is mainly due to the fact that those who use them are happy with the way they can continuously upgrade and extend the serviceability of their group. For example the shifters may be serviced and individual parts replaced as they wear. If a Shimano shifter wears out it is thrown out and a new one replaces it. Modular engineering such as this is clever practice if you want to save the team mechanics' time at the end of a race. But it is frustrating for the amateur who does his own servicing. Shimano's design does not seem to be changing in this respect.
On top of this comes the gimmicky outboard bottom bracket. It has no more technical merit than Cannondale's or FSA's recent efforts at simply making the BB larger. In fact, if Shimano had really been concerned with good (and expedient) engineering practice they might have carried on the same theme and pushed the industry into a standardisation which would have saved them (and the consumer) a lot of money.
For the record I ride a Tomassini with Daytona 10 speed. I chose Daytona because it shifts more accurately, and faster than Dura Ace, the brakes are more solid and powerful than Dura Ace and the levers don't hurt my neck and hands like Dura Ace. It also saves about AU$1000 on the price (notice I didn't mention the number of speeds once in my reasons). And after a year of solid riding and racing, I have only had to replace the chain as it wears. My previous bike had Shimano and I had no end of problems with braking and shifting. I would like to see proof that the important aspects of design (which relate to what the rider wants and needs) have been addressed in this latest 'upgrade'.
Jacob Borger
Sydney, Australia
Friday, June 6 2003
Auto degreasers #1
There was an article about cleaning a bike in a cycling mag a few months ago. It was written by a shop mechanic and he wrote that the best thing for cleaning road muck off the chain and other components was ordinary mineral turpentine. I tried it the next time I cleaned my bike and it works really well - the grime comes straight off and doesn't leave any residue. Just spray the components lightly with water afterwards and dry them before re-lubing.
As for lube - I've been using a product called ProLink chain lube. It's made by Progold products in the US (www.progoldmfr.com) . It was recommended by my bike shop. It was $AU 17 for a 120ml bottle but it lasts for quite a while and seems to do a good job.
Carl Bowden
Australia
Wednesday, May 28 2003
Auto degreasers #2
I use Simple Green to clean the cassette and chain. However, I do stick with a bicycle chain lube specific to lubricate the chain. I find the bicycle lubricants do a better job than automotive lubricants.
John Hartwig
Ankeny, IA
Wednesday, May 28 2003
Auto degreasers #3
I have been using the automotive degreasers for years. On frames of all materials. I usually apply the degreaser to the chain and derailleur with the rear wheel removed. I also apply to the rear cog set when it has been removed from the wheel.
My experience shows the foaming type to work best as it prevents you from using too much. Let it sit a few minutes grab the hose and wash it off with soap and water. I have done this weekly for 20+ years and have yet to have any problems at all. In fact I believe it extends chain life and the life of other parts as they always have clean new lube.
The automotive stuff is cheap, readily available and usually sold in large bottles.
Larry Byvik
Culpeper VA
Wednesday, May 28 2003
Auto degreasers #4
Be careful using the automotive degreasers on your bike. While they may do a great job cleaning grease, some of them may be strong enough to damage the paint and plastic parts on the bike. What I use is Simple Green degreaser. I use the liquid kind you can find at places like Home Depot and Lowes, not the foaming kind found at the bike shops. I use the Simple Green in a chain cleaning tool and on the rear cogs and chain rings. It also works great to clean the frame. Then I carefully hose down the bike, avoiding direct spray at the bearing areas, making sure that the chain is completely rinsed off. The best part is that Simple Green is environmentally friendly (too bad the grease we wash off isn't) and is easy on the skin. Make sure that you lube your chain immediately after it is dry or it will rust.
As for the lube question, I would stick with the bicycle lubes. Automotive lubes are usually too thick for bicycle chains. While they will make the chain run quietly they tend to collect more dust than bicycle specific lubes. Stay away from WD-40. It's mostly a solvent that disappears once it evaporates. Bicycle lubes really are not that expensive when used properly. You only need one drop on every link of the chain. Apply it to the roller that is in between the plates at every pin. If you have a hard time figuring out where you are on your chain, put a mark with a permanent marker on the side of the plate that you start at. When you lube like that even a small bottle will go a long way.
Joe Guthrie
San Antonio, Texas
Wednesday, May 28 2003
Auto degreasers #5
Look in the team pits at any pro race (US at least) and thats what they use.
'Rivermontwest'
Tuesday, June 3 2003
Bianchi/Campy upgrades #1
If you're dead-set on keeping this frame and going to a 9-speed cassette, you will have to increase your axle spacing. With chromoly, this shouldn't be a show-stopper. (If it were anything but steel, you'd be hosed.) You will, however, need a new derailleur and shifter to go to 9-speed, as well.
That said, it's quite possible to stick with a 7-speed casette and get new wheels. There are still companies out there that are making 7-speed rear hubs. The downside is, it's not the higher-end Campy stuff you're used to dealing with, and you're going to have to have a set of wheels built around the hubs. This means, no pre-built Rolfs, Shimanos, Zipps, HEDs, etc., for you, unfortunately.
Lastly, if you weigh 250 pounds, I'd advise you to have a new set of 32-spoke wheels built -- durability is going to be an issue, and if money's been an issue with getting new gear, I'm sure you don't want to spend any more getting your wheels trued every time you hit a bump in the road.
Find a smaller local shop that has a "mad scientist" working there. Talk to him about what you're trying to do. A good shop will work with you to make the changes you want to your current bike without trying to shove a new one down your throat.
Dan Bailey,
Minneapolis, MN
Thursday, May 29 2003
Bianchi/Campy upgrades #2
Like you, I bought an excellent second hand steel framed bike with 7 speed Campag rear screw-on cluster. The old model ergo levers on the bike would handle 8 speed. So I replaced the rear 7 speed hub with a Campag Veloce 8 speed cassette. The rear axle width was exactly the same- it fitted right in, and the whole 8 speed systems works as good as the old 7 speed it replaced.
Steve Bligh,
Sydney, Australia
Sunday, June 1 2003
Bianchi/Campy upgrades #3
Campy had gone to 8 speeds by 1995. Their 7 speed index attempt... fell short of working well. Also, a 1995 frame should be 130mm spacing, which will take any current road wheel. You might be able to get a group built up for $600-900. I think a Centaur group would make you happy.
Jeffrey A. Ogren
Thursday, June 5 2003
Bike Racks #1
Try the Delta HunchRack http://www.deltacycle.com/transporter/hunchrack.php
It mounts the bike similarly to the way typical roof racks it (fork quick release + rear wheel tray), but the entire rack is easily removable when not in use. I have been using one for about a year and a half, and have found it to be fast and easy to mount and remove, and secure with the bike.
This is not a rack for "heavy duty" use week after week, though, and it also rusts quite easily. I find it best for periodic use, when it is not practical to throw the bike in the trunk, or I need to bring a second bike.
I am not affiliated with Delta in any manner.
Greg Wheeler
New York
Wednesday, May 28 2003
Bike Racks #2
I have built a number of one-off bike carriers for friends (and friends of friends). I have a TREK OCLV and my carrier designs are based on the principle of *not* attaching to the frame. So, it's bike vertical with front wheel out, fork into a QR boss, rear wheel in a channel and secured with a strap. This is good enough to hold the bike; the loads imposed on the fork are nothing compared to those of normal riding. But, for added security I tie the seat tube to an upright on the carrier.
I usually attach the carrier to a tow bar and/or roof rack. But everything's possible in a custom job. Contact me if you'd like more details.
Stan Thomas
UK
Wednesday, June 4 2003
Bottle mounts #1
Or a Blackburn PC-1 cage which has individual plates for the mounting bolts and will bridge over the derailleur clamp..
David Abney
Wednesday, May 28 2003
Bottle mounts #2
Have the same problem on my frame. Fixed it with a couple of those little round nuts that thread onto a presta valve to hold it in place on the rim. They make excellent spacers; the bottle cage screws fit right through them. All you need is a tiny bit of clearance over the clamp (and possibly some longer bottle cage screws)
Peter Lindeman
Arlington, VA USA
Wednesday, May 28 2003
Bottle mounts #3
Yes, using thick washers (2 - 4 mm deep) with longer bolts is fine. On my Giant TCR carbon this is the method they use and I would guess a number of others do too.
Paul Thomson
Milton Keynes, UK
Wednesday, May 28 2003
Bottle mounts #4
I use the newer Tacx cages. I have the same problem on my Litespeed Siena. If you want to use a traditional cage, I would recommend the under cage mini pump. It acts as a spacer and holds your pump too.
Jess
Thursday, June 5 2003
