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Tech letters for March 27, 2003
Edited by John Stevenson
Confounded by carbon fiber? Need to sound off about superlight stuff? Tech letters is the forum for your gear-related questions and opinions.
Send your emails to Cyclingnews' tech desk
We got vast amounts of advice after the letter a few weeks ago from Pierre, who wanted to know about frames for bigger riders. It seems there are lots of big guys out there and everyone has their favourite solution to the problem of building a frame that won't be unduly flexible under a big, tall rider. You've suggested oversize aluminium, steel, titanium and carbon fiber and all have their proponents, often vociferous. My take, for what it's worth, is that it's not the material, but what's done with it, that matters. Very tall riders should probably steer clear of superlight frames in all materials, and should be looking at oversize and very oversize frame tubes. Old style steel is therefore probably a bad idea, but oversize steel should work well, while oversize aluminium is an obvious choice, and there are some bargains to be had if you decide not to worry about the few hundred gram difference between an ultra-spendy and an inexpensive aluminium frame.
Simplifying a frame
Campy 10 speed chain links
Carbon fork and grease
Dedaccai EM2 vs U2 tubing
Measuring Q-factor
Suspenders/Braces
Triple cranks
Building up shoes
Tyres
Tacx IMagic
Headlight computer interference
TT double chainsets
Speedplay problem
Play in Campag wheels
Zipp 303 hubs
Ten speed chains
Tyre wear
Pedal/shoe position
Rotor cranks
Frame for a big rider
Crank length
Chamois cream
Simplifying a frame
I have an older lugged Pinarello Veneto frame which rides fine but is quite beat up. Since it has horizontal dropouts, I am thinking of having it professionally repainted and giving it new life as a dedicated single speed bike. Before the paint job, however, I would like to cut off both derailleur hangers as well as the shift bosses on the down tube, and I am wondering if anyone has recommendations on how this can be done aesthetically, without mercilessly hacking up the frame. (A special bike repair outfit? A machine shop? An experienced carpenter?) Also, there is a small, perfectly round dent in the seat tube -- can this be filled in with JB Weld or some other compound? Finally, I believe that some down tubes are drilled all the way through when the shift bosses are put on; since this would obviously impede part of my plan, is there any way to know for sure if this is the case before taking the bike apart?
Chris
Saturday, 8 March 2003
Campy 10 speed chain links
I read with interest the comments regarding the 10 speed chains from Campy and Wipperman. The statements about the special links required to close the chain prompted me to write. I have one Campy 10 speed chain which has been closed the "old fashioned way", using the standard (non-special) links with a good quality chain tool and care. It has now traveled about 2000km and is still going. I recently replaced another one the same way. I know Campy says not to do this and all sorts of bad things might happen. What I would like to ask is:
1. Why are you not supposed to use this "old fashioned way"?
2. Has anyone else done this and what has been the result?
Harry
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Carbon fork and grease
I just fitted a Look HSC3 to my 2 year old Bianchi. Are there any types of grease for the headset bearing that could possibly harm the carbon fiber? I just used car wheel bearing grease.
Kjell Eirik Henanger
Norway
Monday, 10 March 2003
Dedaccai EM2 vs U2 tubing
Rene,
The U2 and EM2 are both known as Dedacciai's "The Third Metal" and are therefore effectively the same tubing. The major difference between the two tubesets is the combination of tubes used from the various other tubesets from Dedacciai. As the Australian Distributor I understand that the difference for the road and MTB is as follows: -
Road Tube Description U2 EM2 Top Tube U2 U2 Seat Tube U2 U2 Down Tube U2 U2 Chainstay U2, Carbon U2, Force/Sc61:10a, Carbon Seat Stay* Sc61:10a, Carbon Sc61:10a, Carbon MTB Tube Description U2 EM2 Top Tube U2 Force Seat Tube U2 U2 Down Tube U2 U2 Chainstay Sc61:10a Sc61:10a Seat Stay Sc61:10a Sc61:10a
For the 2002 Interbike Trade Show we made an U2 Xtralite frame (53.5cm frame top tube) weighing in at 740 grams (polished finish). Of course this type of a frame is an event specific frame and would not be recommended for everyday training and racing. Using the U2 material along with different frame construction methods would result in a slightly heavier frame but one that could be used successfully for every day use including racing and training.
However Dedacciai have a couple of stipulations for use of the U2 tubing in that the material is considered to be equivalent to application like in F1 racing thus the frame should be checked every 500km or 20 hours of riding and that it is best to ensure that rough roads are avoided. It is somewhat difficult to interpret or sometimes apply these conditions to the letter other than to suggest that as tubing becomes lighter it's use becomes more specific. That said we have a number of U2 frames in the market place with nearly two years of use without any problems or failure. In the end I believe wholeheartedly that a good frame relies firstly on the materials selected but workmanship and attention to detail are paramount to the longevity of a frame, but of course, one can never discount the rider and his/her use or abuse factor and 3rd party accidents.
Peter Teschner
www.teschnerbikes.com
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Measuring Q-factor
Regarding Zach Zimmerman's question regarding Q-factor measurement: The measurement generally compares the distance between your second toes to a measurement between the bony prominences on the front of your pelvis, the anterior superior iliac spines. These two measurement should closely correspond. It's fairly easy to get the pelvic measurement by yourself. The easiest way to measure between your second toes is to have a friend measure the distance from the middle of the down tube to your second toe. Do both sides and add the measurements together. Make sure that your foot is not rotated in our out or it will give you an inaccurate measurement. Adjusting for a difference between the two measurements can be difficult depending upon the type of pedal system you're using. The new LOOK system allows for a 10mm lateral adjustment. Some systems don't allow for more than 2-3mm. Adding washers between the pedal spindle and the crank arm can be risky since you lose a certain amount of purchase.
Dave Taggart P.T.
dtagpt@xmission.com
Saturday, 15 March 2003
Suspenders/Braces
This is sort of a silly question, but here goes: Back when I started riding (When both jerseys and shorts were wool!) one could purchase cycling specific suspenders (Braces). Is there still a source for these? I like bibshorts, but there are times when a regular pair of shorts combined with removable suspenders is way better. Would love to hear if anyone knows where I can find a set.
Thanks,
Bruce Lee
Redmond, WA
Friday, 14 March 2003
Triple cranks
Q) I have been a mountain biker for the last 7 years. Last summer I picked up an old steel Bianchi and rode it for extra fitness all summer. I enjoyed it far more that I ever thought I would like riding the road. I even rode a 50 miler in September with the local Road Bike Club (Narragansett Bay Wheelmen). So now that the bug has taken hold, I've purchased a new Specialized S-Works E5 Aerotech frameset from my LBS and I'm in the process of building it up. Since my only experience is with down-tube shifters, I recently test rode some bikes to experience the differences between Campy and Shimano. I liked the thumb paddles with the Campy, and will probably spec that groupo.
My question is, what do you think about using a triple or double crankset? I've heard that the weight penalty is so small, why not? I've also heard the chain lines on the triple can be very finicky and annoying; more troublesome to keep the front derailleur shifting crisply, easier to keep the double true. I always just felt I didn't have enough gears on my old bike to make some big climbs in my area, without standing and just ticking the cranks over. My old bike had a 40 / 53 chain ring and a 13, 15, 17, 20, 23, 26 cassette. Can I accomplish almost the same thing as a triple by using a double and a 13-29 cassette? At age 44 and 200lb. What would you suggest?
Anthony S. Buglio
Warwick, RI
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Building up shoes
I am recovering from a serious leg fracture and ended up with a leg descrepancy of 3/4 inch. Does any one have ideas on how to build up MTB shoes to compensate?
'Brodhaus'
Saturday, 15 March 2003
Tyres
I currently use Continental GP3000s and have had great service from them in terms of both grip and puncture resistance. However, I can't help noticing that the majority of the pro peloton at Het Volk were using Michelin pros and in general these tyres seem to have grown in popularity a lot over the last couple of years. Of course at a professional level tyre choice is heavily influenced by sponsorship, so I wondered if any readers had switched from Conti to Michelin and if so how they compare.
Ian Simpson
UK
Thursday, 6 March 2003
Tacx IMagic
I'm interested in buying the Tacx IMagic trainer. Does anyone out there have experience using it? How does it compare to the CompuTrainer system? Does using the software give you the feel of a race? Does the unit seem reliable?
Most of all, is it fun?
Mike McCarthy
USA
Thursday, 20 March 2003
Headlight computer interference
My Sigma wireless computer recently developed what appeared to be a strange intermittent fault. It would fail to function at all, but only on my morning rides. On the workshop stand and in daylight hours it functioned perfectly. What strange phenomenon could be taking place? As it is dark here in the mornings now and a little cool I figured it might be too cold in the morning and that maybe the batteries were on the way out. I tried new batteries - still no change. This morning the mystery was solved. As the sun came up I turned off my flashing front light and the computer jumped back into life. Mmmmmm? I thought let's try a little experiment. Flasher light on - Computer dead. Flashing light off - Computer OK (Repeated about eight times to be certain).
So sure enough there was a connection (Or in fact lack of one when the light was on). Now I must stress that I run two front lights - an older flasher with the green LEDs and a newer one with the bright white LEDs. It is this second white beam one that is the culprit, the older green one having no impact on the computer.
So. This leads to my two questions:
1. What is it about these new brighter flashing white LED lights that interferes with the wireless computer ?
2. Can the light or it's offending component/s be shielded in some way or prevented from emitting the interference? (I already have the two units as far from each other on the bars as space permits)
Davern White
Melbourne, Victoria
Thursday, 27 March 2003
TT double chainsets
I have no experience of TT, I do participate in triathlon now and then. But can someone explain to me why all (I think) of the TT bikes I have seen have the conventional two chainrings at the front. Surely the majority of TTs are completed from start to finish in the big ring, is it a UCI regulation?
Ian Loxton
Sydney
Wednesday, 26 March 2003
Speedplay problem
I've ridden Speedplay for years, and now a problem has developed that I am unable to diagnose. I know someone else with the same problem, so it doesn't appear to be an isolated event.
The inside of the shoe cleat is wearing a groove into the pedal stem. The shoe appears to be rolling to the inside, and the cleat is touching the stem as the cranks turn. The groove is deeper underneath the power phase of the pedal stroke. When standing on the pedals, I can feel the torque of the friction twisting my foot.
The cleats were new last year when the problem began. I cannot feel the problem underfoot when using the older set of cleats (on other shoes). Thus the problem appears to be the shoe, the cleat, or the cleat position on the shoe. But I haven't found the solution yet.
Peter Crimmin
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Play in Campag wheels
Hope you can help me with a problem - or at least maybe direct me to someone who could.
I have two pairs of Campag wheels, Neutron and Shamal, both bought mid 2001 season.
I have noticed recently (in the last six months, but it could have been longer, as I was not looking for it)noticed that on the rear Shamal, when it's in the frame and you push the wheel side to side you get the feeling of some 'play'. It is definitely not the cones, quick relaese, frame alignment or interface, cluster, worn bearings, brake blocks, spokes etc. All this has been checked and the wheel stripped, all bearings replaced etc. by 3 mechanics (one of whom does bikes for the some of the best riders in the country).
This left us all a little baffled. We consulted with a few others (engineers, I kid you not) and this is our conclusion. Since everything else works perfectly, but there is still play apparent at the rim, then what actually is happening is that the bearing surfaces in the hub have got 'play' at their interface to the hub.This seems to be confirmed when you put weight on the saddle you can 'feel' the clicking.
Even more surprisingly, when I put the Neutron wheel in last week (post winter), we observed a similar phenomenon.
I am using a Pinarello Prince frame (new mid last season) and have checked its alignment etc. I weigh 68 kilos, do a small amount of training and ride some Cat 3 races - I'm not a big power rider
Have you heard of this problem before, is my diagnosis correct, do you know how (who) could solve it ?
John O'Sullivan
Ireland
Tuesday, 11 March 2003
Zipp 303 hubs
I have a query about the 2003 model Zipp 303 wheels. Does anyone know what hubs are used in these wheels. I am unable to find any detail on this aspect of these wheels.
Peter Winton
Mildura, Australia
Friday, 14 March 2003
Ten speed chains #1
I have been riding Campy 10 for about two years now and the entire time I have been using the Sachs/SRAM PC89-R chain with absolutely no problems. I replace the chain every 3000 miles and I have not noticed excessI've wear to any of the other components. Definitely worth a try if you have Campy 10 speed.
Mike Vallender
San Diego, CA
Monday, 10 March 2003
Ten speed chains #2
In response to Chris Marassovich who used a Wippermann chain for 7000 km then had to change his cassette when he got a new campy chain:
As a chain wears, it stretches (every chain). As it stretches the links don't fit between the teeth on the cogs as well so it begins to wear out the teeth, forming them into "hooks". This will happen the most on the cogs that you use most frequently. Since the chain and the cogs are wearing together, they will still work OK, until the cog teeth become so hooked that shifting performance suffers, or the stretched chain no longer works well on the unworn less used cogs (in my case cogs like the 12 and 13!).
When you replace the chain, the new chain does not mesh well with the worn cogs and it will skip badly exactly as Chris described. Again, this is usually worst in the most worn cogs. At this point you can either replace just the worn cogs, or the entire cassette. This is true of every single cassette and chain combination.
In order to prevent this from occurring, you have to replace your chain more often (every 2000 or 3000 km). You will then be able to get several chains worth of wear out of your cassette. However, given how expensive chains are getting, it might actually be cheaper to keep using one chain and cassette until both are blown and then replace both together. (Note: if you are racing and switching between wheels with their own cassettes, or hope to borrow a rear wheel - your only choice is to maintain a fairly new chain and hope the cogs on the wheel you get are also not too worn, not to mention getting a wheel with the correct cassette to match your bike!)
Tim Rode
Kelowna, BC, Canada
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Ten speed chains #3
Eric Doswell writes, "Foolishly, I decided to use the quick link on the Campagnolo chain. It broke in a sprint. I sat down on the asphalt at 40mph. . . I will never use one again. I will never recommend one, and never sell one to a customer."
Foolish indeed. The blame for this mishap should be placed firmly where it belongs: on the rider himself, not the Wipperman chain. All chain manufacturers (including Wipperman) clearly state in their instructions that connecting links should be used with their chains only. The reason has to do with the tolerances and design of the chain. It is hard to believe that a bike mechanic is foolish enough to mix a Wipperman connector with a Campy chain.
Ken O'Day
Tucson, AZ
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Tyre wear #1
Rotating tires will not allow you to get more mileage out of your tires. It only allows you to replace them both at the same time as by rotating them you will even out the wear between the two tires.
I use Sheldon's technique. Just use the rear until it gets worn, then replace it. I can go through 3-4 rears when the front still looks like new. Sprints and hard climbing just eats up those rear tires.
If you dont ride a lot, rotating might make sense because the front will probably rot before it wears out so it would make sense to put it on the rear to get some use out of that rubber that would otherwise just sit and get cracked.
Bobby Gitmore
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Tyre wear #2
The idea of rotating tires back and forth between the front and rear struck me as a lot of work for no gain. I usually have very little tread left on a rear tire after 1000 miles. My usual rotation pattern is new-->front-->rear-->trash. I replace the tire when the cords begin to show on the rear. I found some interesting tire wear data on http://www.analyticcycling.com. The site reports on a user survey that shows that the average rear tire wore out after 1554 miles, about half the life of a front tire. There is some other data there about tubulars vs clinchers, tire color, tire width, etc.
Mark Hopkins
Newark, Delaware
Wednesday, 19 March 2003
Pedal/shoe position
Actually, power lifters have heels on their shoes. So yes, they do lift on the balls of their feet.
Adrian Hart
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Rotor cranks
I'm not sure Richard is seeing results from this system, or something else. You noted a range of 6 to 2 percent increase depending on the length of your TT. Are you sure you're not seeing the benefits of some other change (have you ever changed anything - new tire, adjusted air pressure, new chain or gear set?). Even though your bike set up is the same, things do wear out and do get replaced. It's also likely that you're just seeing the benefits of training. Isn't that the goal - to get better? And if you've been training, would that be expected? The fact that the improvement decreases as the duration goes up may point to this. If you really want to examine this closer, do a comparison using random variation. Randomly alternate between crank set ups and time trial distances. If those results show improvement, I'll be much more apt to accept your appraisal of this product.
Kurt Erickson
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #1
Lennard Zinn specializes in steel and titanium frames for big people, (Lennard himself is 6'6").
http://www.zinncycles.com/
Rob Roeder
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #2
Last year my training partner and I both bought Trek 5200's. I am 6'3" and ride a 60cm frame and find it perfect, I weigh around 180lb a little short of yourself. My training partner however weighed in at 210lb for most of last year and his Trek (58cm)supported him faithfully, he is now down to 196lb after a tough winter regime. I'd say carbon is well worth a look, consideration of your wheel build is maybe more important.
Andy Underhill
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #3
Go for an aluminium frame, with OS tubing. I am about your size myself, and have a Daccordi Volcano 62cm frame built from Columbus Altec2 OS tubing (66 c-t seat tube, 61 c-c top tube) There is such a huge selection of brands and prices to choose from with aluminum!
Spend the extra money on a spare set of Ksyriums or go for Dura Ace with 180mm arms, for the long legs to have something to push on!
Magne, 195cm, 105kg
Norway
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #4
The absolutely best frame for you, would be a Principia Rex. I own a bike shop in Denmark, and have sold a lot of Rexes for bigger people, and have only had VERY satisfied clients. It is also lighter than a Litespeed Ultimate or Trek OCLV (including forks, witch on the Principia are state of the art). Most titanium frames are quite flexible, and it only gets worse in the big sizes.
Take a look at the Principia website: www.principiabikes.com.
Kind regards
Thomas Bank
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #5
I would definitely give Waterford Cycles a good look. They hand build steel frames in Wisconsin in what was the old Schwinn Paramount factory. The two guys in charge, Mark Muller and Richard Schwinn, are bigger guys as well, and Waterford does custom frames at no extra charge. That includes customizing the tubeset to compensate for a larger frame. A whole range of geometries, from full racing to touring to cyclocross and track. And with a new sub-3lb steel frame these aren't tanks, either--that's as light or lighter than many of the aluminum/carbon combos we see today. Anyways, I could go on about them all day long, but I know they'd do you right and with truly "big" guys in charge there, they can relate to what you need. Give them a ring and talk to Richard or Mark.
Drew Vankat
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #6
As a fellow big guy (6ft 7in and 275lb) I went custom steel and found Carl Strong @ Strong Frames (http://www.strongframes.com/) very helpful on both design and material selection. He was very helpful in talking about different material options for my frame and didn't just try and steer me to the more expensive option. He was also very helpful in laying out the trade offs between weight and ride.
I have been on a Strong custom Columbus Foco frame for 4500 miles and it has been great both in terms of ride and fit. If you are in the market for a change Carl is a great guy to talk to.
Jonathan Podmore
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #7
I'm 6'4" have ridden aluminum, titanium they are great for the first season, the problem is they start to fatigue due to the weight and extra power that the big guys put out. The biggest problem areas are the seat-post/collar and bottom bracket. At 6'4" you will definitely want to ride 177.5-180cm. cranks - the frame will need to take the torque and not flex. The longer cranks help us big guys get up the hills faster-take advantage of those long femurs and power. My suggestion would be carbon - I currently have a Calfee Tetra Pro it's the best! No flex, solid feel and very luxurious ride.
Val Tirman
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #8
I am in the same boat as Pierre. I am 37, 6ft 4in and a little heavier than 210 lb right now, but that's going to change this year! I ride an oversized steel bike which I love, but I frequently lament that everyone else under the sun rides bikes lighter than me, which doesn't help when going up the hills or trying to accelerate in a bunch. I have heard that for guys our size, the only type of Ti frame one should ride would be made of 6/4 titanium, like the bike you mentioned. I am also aware of a Serotta Ti bike (that may be a custom job) that is made from oversized Titanium, and the one I saw was ridden by a guy as tall as us and even heavier than 220 lbs!
I have not ever seen a bike our size built up in a shop such that I could test ride one, so the jury's out on how they feel compared to steel. Also, as far carbon bikes go, the OCLV or monocoque style frames are probably the only ones that could feel halfway decent under such a big load. Any sort of screwed and glued type bikes would just be too whippy!
Chris Nelson
Mill Valley (Marin County) California
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #9
Like Pierre I am a tall cyclist. At 6'-10" and 250lbs, cycling has had its challenges but nothing that could not be solved. I ride both custom and factory made bicycles. Back in the late 70's when I became a serious rider there was not much available to ride. My first bike was a Panasonic Sport Deluxe in a 27" size. Low quality, but I had a lot of fun on that bike. Early 80's led me to frame builder J.P. Weigle in East Haddam, Conn. who built a Reynolds 531 frame for me. After a few upgrades for modern components and a new paint job, I still ride that bike. Over the years, I have added another custom OS steel bike for fast centuries and some commuting. I have had some luck with large factory bikes as well. Cannondale made its 3.0 crit. frame in 68cm. as a frame only some years ago and I have a 3-year old Cannondale touring bike also. It was available in 25" and 27" sizes. As far as carbon fiber is concerned, Giant has XL sizing for its carbon as well as its aluminum road bikes in 13 different models. Giant's XL size range is for people ranging from 6'-3" to 6'-7" tall. Most frame builders can produce larger frames if you just check around. I don't really buy the old "steel is flexable" and "aluminum is stiff" myths. These days, with all of the tubes available, any material can be designed for great riding. Also, Sidi makes shoes up to size 52 and Performance has some decent clothes for taller people.
Keith Kleinfeldt
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #10
Sound like Pierre needs a custom frame, I'm 6ft 1in with long legs so I ride a 61cm with a 58.9cm tt. You should talk to the kids at Seven cycles! They make the best I think! But it's going to cost you but it should last you a very long time. You should look at an Axiom all Ti.
Go to Seven cycles and take a look, a custom frame costs no more then there set sizes and a custom frame is just a dream!
Dan Davis
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #11
I'm the same size as you and after years of riding steel frames I finally got a Cannondale track bike which was noticeably stiffer (I could ride around the bottom of the 160metre track.) I've just brought the cheapest standard shape aluminium frame I could find, a Tifosi-cycles.co.uk CK3 and this is also very good. Not only light but stiff. One of the advantages of being our size is that the cheaper tube sets that are drawn with more material offer great value and good performance. Although they might be a pound or two heavier they won't break and cost one third of the price. If you think of it in terms of body weight some one who's 160 pounds would need a 16 pound bike to keep the same proportions and they cost a lot!
Rob Jefferies
London
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #12
I am also a big guy: 6'4" and 220 and an ex-trackie. On the advise of Tom Kellogg, I purchased a Merlin Extralight with a Reynolds carbon fork and it works great. I can also recommend the Seven Axiom. Both companies have a lot of experience with BIG bikes.
Mark Ritz
USA
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #13
For what it's worth, I'm 6'7" (203cm) and weigh 220lbs (100kg). Like you, I found a love for cycling - after careers in other sports. My first passion is MTB, which I am less suited to physically, but enjoy XC racing anyway. But on the road, I find a much leveler playing field. Guys like us will never be climbers, but we can rule undulating and flat courses.
For this, I found that Specialized, Litespeed, and Cannondale make suitable road frames that meet the dimensions you quoted for guys our size which you can pick up off the showroom floor. With Cannondale and Specialized, you get an alloy frame, which is light and stiff. I went with an S-works Specialized because of the frame's stiffness for sprinting - which is where we need to put our size to use. I found steel frames tended to flex too much when you start getting to large frame sizes. Alloy is a little less comfortable, but I am happy to trade that off for responsiveness and drive when powering up.
Try to get some impressions from guys who have large titanium frames. I'm suspecting from what I've read that they can use more of the lighter material to make a stiffer titanium frame than a comparable steel one. They have a legendary reputation for being comfortable and light without being as flexy as steel. If recreational or touring riding is your thing rather than racing, I think that might be the choice, but a little more expensive.
Carbon is both stiff and light, but expensive. I've also stayed away from it due to my weight. I'm concerned (rightly or wrongly) that my weight will introduce a fatigue factor that will test any damage the frame may be exposed to in regular use. I've seem too many snapped carbon frames under much smaller guys. I'm sure as years go on, manufacturing technology with carbon is improving rapidly. But until I can gain that confidence, I would rather avoid any circling doubts in my mind, and enjoy the many good alloy or titanium alternatives that exist. At least if your size does lead to a cracked or broken frame, you get some warning, and you can have it welded back up.
David Ewins
Australia
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #14
I am 6' 2" and 225 lbs. I switched from aluminum to Trek OCLV carbon three years ago. I sprint with a lot of torque in races, but also do long weekend rides of 6 hours or more. I love my carbon. It is stiff and comfortable, just like they say.
Jonathan Miner
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #15
I'm 6'3", weigh 215 lbs, and am extremely happy with my Cannondale CAAD7 frame in 63cm. Great stiffness, super light, and extremely comfortable.
Gebhard Ebenhoech
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #16
It's probably a bit down-market for you, but I bought a (2nd hand) Merida 905 2001 model frame, and the top tube is 60cm and seat tube 56cm. So it's like a compact frame for a very big rider. If you put on a 130mm stem with 17 degrees rise, and with lots of seat post extension, it's like a 62cm frame but smaller and stiffer. If you need to get aero, slip a 0 degree stem on for time trialling. It's not going to be as light as some of the expensive frames but for a big bloke, I reckon it's perfect. Very stiff, and with a really high bottom bracket - I use 180mm cranks and I'm not almost never scraping the pedals in hard cornering. I've never felt a frame I've liked so much. Steering geometry seems excellent. My inseam is 915mm.
Andrew von Berky
Woody Point, QLD Australia
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #17
One of the best frame builders in the world is in Montreal. He is extremely experienced and has a state-of-the-art facility. I suspect he would tell you that any Ti frame in your size would be either light and too flexy or, if made stiff enough, too heavy. You clydesdale-type builds do very well on oversize aluminum (not flexy at the drivetrain, harsh ride and, in the poorer grades, fatigue-prone). Marinoni can build you anything you wish and it would be equivalent to, or better than, any of the best frames in the world.
But my pick for you based on my success with many other big guys would be a bike built just over the border in Maine USA. A small company that pioneered the development of the monocoque carbon frame will build you a custom lay-up for extra strength and stiffness. It will give you the best combination of climbing/sprinting stiffness with a butter-smooth ride. They are very well built, in time consuming and expensive technique but are still the most reasonable price of all the carbon frames. The name is Aegis and they run a little big on frame geometry, but don't let that top tube dimension fool you. The Aro Svelte frameset has a trick seat tube that produces a fit that is effectively a centimeter or two longer than the chart indicates. The Victory is a straight seat tube and may not be long enough.
While Marinoni has personally built well over 25,000 frames in his career,
mostly of Columbus steel, even he has been won over by carbon and is due to
introduce a carbon frame of his own. Like almost all of the carbon frames available
though, his is tubes glued to lugs, like Treks, DeRosa, Look and so many others.
This is relatively cheap and quick to build (lower molding costs) but is not
the ultimate exploitation of the properties of carbon composites.
Thanks for reading.
Paul Rinehart
Williamstown MA, USA
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #18
Big riders usually find oversize aluminium frames, like Klein and Cannondale, are the best way to get a stiff frame. Read the comments on frame size versus stiffness on this page:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard_frametest.html
In particular note how Holland-built Ti frames with very large diameters to attempt to get similar stiffness on large frames to that of smaller frames. Note how the largest frame was a Ti, custom made for a track sprinter, and the next largest was a stock Klein which was stiffer.
But better to ask is how do you find your current frame? Does it fit you? What is your riding style - climb a lot, climb out of the saddle or seated? Sprinter or social rider? If you are getting a stock frame then you should make sure the top tube length suits your style and size.
Bruce Frech
Eagle, PA
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #19
I, too, am a large rider (6'6" and 100kg). I have two bikes--both steel. I found that off the shelf bikes were too cramped -- of course, this depends on whether the 63cm frames you are talking about are big enough for you. In any case, my favourite was my Scapin EOS 7 (custom built); light, stiff steel. The Wound-Up forks are fantastic--strong, stiff, but comfortable, very responsive. They have a carbon steerer tube with an inner alloy sleeve. I combined that with Thomson stem and seatpost and Campag Nucleon wheels -- found that this was 'safe' for my weight.
Unfortunately, a friend and I were hit by a 1.5 tonne pick-up. We got away with scrapes, but our bikes were demolished. Not even steel can handle being run over by a small truck. So I will order the Scapin S8 (new model) when the driver's insurance coughs up the cash.
You can check out their web-site at www.scapin.com.
If you don't need a custom built frame, most of my friends swear by carbon (but not good if you crash once in a while). Can't go wrong with titanium if you have the cash for a high end one.
Peter Josef Benda
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Thursday, 6 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #20
I'm an avid competitive cyclist both on and off road for over 10 years now, a touch over 6'3" (180-195lbs.) and in completing my Engineering degree have studied mechanics of materials and structural engineering.
My take is this. Setting aside all the boring technical details: oversized aluminum is the way to go, period. I've ridden all the other materials and found them to be wet noodles. I ride a 63cm CAAD7 Cannondale (via a sponsorship) currently and would only consider a Klein if I hit the lottery.
Cliff Clermont
Encinitas, CA
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Frame for a big rider #21
You sound like me: 6'3.5" and 215-220lbs. I've been riding since I was 16, now 53; many years competing/winning road/track. I've owned many bikes (as my wife will testify); currently, 4 Colnago (Alum) Dreams, 1 COlnago MstrTi, I've had a C40 and a steel Tommasini (incredible bike), Moser, Medici, Simo, Guerciotti, CAD 5 Cannondale. Soooo, my big rider experienced based advice is as follows. The Colnagos are the definitive Ital ride; I'm hooked on the paint as well. You can't go wrong with a Dream, especially an original with is a bit stiffer than the new Columbus Airplane edition. But, dollar for dollar, I have to say that the Cannondale CAAD 5 is a rocket. In a big frame it is just stiff, 1 1/8 headset eliminates the flex when standing, and the price is great. Not as 'Ital' flashy, but a GREAT ride that equals or surpasses the Dream.
'Mediciosso'
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Crank length
Have the laws of physics have been subverted in the Land of Oz?
In the Northern Hemisphere, in any given gear, a rider using 170mm cranks spins at exactly the same RPM as a rider using 180mm cranks.
Of course, we could get into more abstruse arguments regarding the angular velocity of your feet at different crank lengths for a given gear/rpm, but it seems reasonable to assume that these differences are trivial from a biomechanical standpoint. Remember that the difference between 175's and 180's equals a mere 1/5 of an inch!
Dennis Loebs
New York
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Crank length and knee angle
This is something I would very much like to know myself. I am 5ft 6in and ride 170s at the moment. Is it worth considering using a 172.5mm cranks? I wonder if I'm giving up anything to my competitors. I have a finicky right knee and don't like to change a thing (seat height, fore aft etc) unless I have. Anyone have any advice?
Andy Luhn
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Crank lengths - Murray adjustable
Steve mentions Murray Cranks as a source of adjustable cranks for cyclists with leg length differences. I know of two other sources. SRM makes an adjustable crank as does my company, PowerCranks. The PowerCranks model was initially designed for the rehab market so it is extremely adjustable from about 115 to 210 mm in length in 2.5mm increments.
Adjustable cranks offer many advantages to cyclists beyond the ability to adjust for simple leg length differences. Advantages include: 1. Being able to easily try different crank lengths to determine optimum crank length when outfitting a new bike at the beginning of the season, 2. Being able to easily try different crank lengths to determine optimum crank length when optimum crank length for different conditions (hills, flats, etc.). 3. The ability to easily change crank length for special drills. 4. The ability to easily compensate for leg length discrepancies. All of the above pluses would exist for any crank with length adjustability. "Unfortunately" these advantages are not available to the PowerCranks user until they have learned how to "pedal in circles".
Frank Day
PowerCranks, Walnut Creek CA
Tuesday, 11 March 2003
Chamois cream #1
With everyone telling me how great chamois cream was, I bought and then tried some. I got an awful burning sensation from the menthol that did not go away. I had to cut my ride short and take a very thorough shower.
The ingredients in the cream may not work for everyone.
Harry Pugh
New York
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Chamois cream #2
I use it on most rides as it definitely helps prevent sores. I reckon one of the best ones is Assos Chamois Creme, although I've been told that straightforward Savlon is just as good and a lot cheaper.
Colm Ahern
Ireland
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Chamois cream #3
I have problems in warm weather w/rash until I regularly put 'Chamois Butter' on, then the trouble vanished. I don't use it in winter but it remains a warm weather must if I do any distance riding.
Dave Skogley
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Chamois cream #4
I've been riding for a while and have never used chamois cream. My buddy, who's a veteran racer, has been riding way longer and has never used it. Comfy shorts, comfy saddle, and sitting properly on your perch should be good enough.
Richie Don Sanque
Tuesday, 4 March 2003
Chamois cream #5
I always use something in my shorts. Mostly to prevent chafing and saddle sores. I have often used bag balm, but it's goopy on your fingers, eats chamois' after time, and was designed for udders. What I really love to use is a product called BodyGlide. It's a hands free stick that can be rubbed onto the skin or the chamois. Great for those long days in the saddle. Later.
Jer Walker
Tuesday, 4 March 2003 (PST)
Chamois cream #6
These days, most knicks use a synthetic padding instead of the genuine chamois of the past - where a cream was necessary to prevent the chamois from going stiff and dry after washing. So, its original function is pretty much obsolete now. The creams that are available - and very hard to find in Australia - are designed to protect the rider's skin from chaffing etc. In the US and Europe, they tend to market specific cycling creams. I've bought some in my travels, and they are good. But Aussies are know for their resourcefulness - and true to form, tend to rely on either sorbolene cream or good ol' Vaseline. They're cheap, and the girls like it too!
David Ewins
Australia
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Chamois cream #7
Chamois cream is a MUST in my book. Here in the US there are several different brands to those from. But my fiancee and I both suggest that you try 'Udderly Smooth'. Yes it is a udder cream, but it seems to work the best and it is very cheap. No more saddle sores. The price is around $4 US and comes in a 12 oz (340gms) container. If you go to http://www.uddercream.com/ (it is the container on the left) I am not sure that it offered down under.
Rory McAdams
Tuesday, 4 March 2003 (PST)
Chamois cream #8
Original chamois for cycling knicks [Australian for 'shorts' - multilingual Ed] was made from sheep skin which had been tanned with Cod fish oil. The fish oil kept the chamois soft and prevented it from drying out. A dry chamois that had lost its protective oil after several washes became rather unpleasant to ride on - a bit like Hessian or sandpaper and with potentially painful consequences. The chamois's useful life without chamois cream was therefore severely limited. The application of chamois cream on these old style knicks was to protect and preserve the chamois and keep it soft. It also formed a protective lubricating barrier between the riders posterior and the chamois. Not surprisingly most chamois creams had cod fish oil as a key ingredient and then a host of other ingredients, many included in a vain attempt to tame the wicked fish oil smell!
With the invention of synthetic chamois in more recent times the requirement to treat the chamois became less important. Few contemporary chamois will suffer from neglecting to apply chamois cream. The role of chamois cream now is more as a lubricant and protectant for your delicate regions. The debate on saddle sores still rages. Whilst some argue that chamois cream protects against saddle sores others insist that the greasy formulas of some chamois creams actually block the pores encouraging irritation and sores. Some chamois creams have an antiseptic added, sometimes paraffin and in others essential oils, to combat potential nasties.
At the end of the day I think the decision to chamois cream or note is a personal one. If you suffer from irritation or discomfort (and it's not caused by cheap or ill-fitting knicks) give chamois cream a try. If you're not having any problems you can probably live without it. If you are in Melbourne Australia, Daryl Perkins (of Perkins Frames fame) sells a Danish fish oil based formula that is used extensively by six day riders (they would NEED it!) I still use a chamois cream for longer rides. Only downside I have with it is that after I get home the cat is very keen to have a sniff around my nether regions.
Davern White
Melbourne, Victoria
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Chamois cream #9
Some riders are lucky enough to never experience saddle sores or chafing. However, many riders, either regularly or at some point in their riding lives, experience chafing from the saddle. Chafing goes away if there is some lubricant in between and chamois cream provides the lubricant between the chamois and the skin.
Some chamois creams contain numbing agents like lidocaine and I would not recommend these. For one, it can cause a positive drug test(!) if used without prescription, but it also means you can't feel any chafing which may still be occurring so you might end up with a serious sore which you only feel once the lidocaine has worn off. The Assoes chamois cream is my favourite as it is made specifically for the purpose and seems to last well through a long ride. But when desperate I have used simple moisturising creams and they serve the purpose. They just tend to be absorbed into the skin and so don't last as well as the purpose-made chamois creams.
Anna Millward
Australia
Wednesday, 5 March 2003
Chamois cream #10
Chamois Cream is a great help....nothing worse than putting a dry chamois under a big hairy dry butt and grinding them together for a couple hours. Chafe-o-matic. Throw in some sweat and the possibility of a poor fitting saddle and you'll be screaming for the creaming. Just a little bit of moisturizer can make a world of difference!
Jonathan Tapper
San Francisco, USA
Thursday, 6 March 2003
