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Tech letters for February 4, 2003
Edited by John Stevenson
Confounded by carbon fiber? Need to sound off about superlight stuff? Tech letters is the forum for your gear-related questions and opinions.
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Welcome to the first of what I hope will be a much more frequent tech forum in 2003, as the on-going success of Cyclingnews and the popularity of the tech area means there's more resources available for this section.
However, our Christmas break, with several staff taking holidays in December and January (including me) means it's been a long time since the last installment, so we're rather starting from scratch with a new set of questions and comments on recent reviews. Thanks to everyone who offered their ideas and expertise in the past - here we go for 2003!
John Stevenson
Wheels
Carbon rear stays
Deda Synapsi handlebars
Fork/headset compatibility
New Ultegra pedal?
Pedal Axle Length
Pedal platforms
Rolf wheel noise
Shimano XTR
Speed tyres
Time Impact pedals
Tire wear
Titanium frame
Wheels
Everywhere a mug cyclist turns there are experts telling him/her how best to spend their money. From the 2002 Bike Show in Melbourne to the mags and the websites there are "reviews" and "experts" telling us what they "reckon" is best.
"This frame weighs only 7 .8 kg (and costs $5000!) - what a difference it will make to your weekend handicap race with the vets!" (even if your three week Xmas spree has added enough kilos to the bike/rider package to make the frame weight saving insignificant).
"These wheels are a bargain at $1400 and are so new-age and aerodynamic - they'll make a huge difference!"
Others (the conservatives), tell us to forget all the space age stuff and get the local wheel builder to build you a set of wheels with 32 spokes, sealed bearings and light conventional rims even if they still cost you $1000.
How can we decide?
Where is all the objective information? Where can I find an expert to tell us what they really think? What about tests and time differences expected at 32kmh over a 60 km race with some drafting? What about using the new Power measuring devices (Power Tap, SRM and Polar S710) to measure the differences for different wheels, tyres, frames etc? I don't believe these tests would be hard to do if you had access to the equipment.
Every time we read a review it tells us that the product is wonderful. Every time! What about some comparisons and conclusions? Many articles are informative and helpful but they rarely make it any easier for a weekend warrior to make an informed decision about how to spend his/her hard earned cash.
For example, it must be possible to do a scientific comparison between the performances expected from a lightweight conventional wheel (eg Mavic Open Pro rim, Hugi hubs and DT spokes) and a new age "aero" wheel (eg Bontrager Race Light or Ksyrium SL) in a typical bunch ride/race. Why won't anyone do it?
Today I spoke with three bike shops about the wheel issue. What should I buy for a race wheelset around $1000? Two told me to go with conventional wheels and high spoke numbers ("Europe is going back to box rims"). The other (a major store) told me that I would be a fool to go with anything but a deep rim, reduced spoke number, new generation wheel. This shop suggested to me that all reviews were rubbish because someone in the industry, with a vested interest, always writes them.
The auto clubs and magazines publish ratings of best cars in a myriad of different categories. Some of the running mags publish annual rankings of running shoes in different categories. Why can't you guys get together and tell us the best packages in different price ranges, the best frames, the best wheels etc?
How does a passionate cyclist, with a limited budget, decide how to spend his/her money?
Roger Bade
Australia
Roger, I could write an essay on this whole subject, but instead I'll just repeat something I used to say when I got phone calls from readers back in my print magazine days. Asked by UK readers back in the early 90s what was the best thing they could buy for 250 quid to improve their mountain bikes, I used to tell them: a week in the Pyrenees. I haven't changed my mind. Go ride in the hills. - JS
Carbon rear stays
A friend of mine is looking to purchase a frame (scandium compact) that has an option on muscle carbon rear stays. What benefits are to be derived from selecting this option?
Mick Teggelove
Australia
Deda Synapsi handlebars
Has anyone had a chance to test the new Deda Synapsi handlebars? I am curious to hear if they are a result or yet another gimmick? Retailing in Europe at euro 600 would make them an expensive mistake. Any info would be appreciated.
Mike Creedon
Switzerland
Fork/headset compatibility
If anybody can shed some light on this I'd appreciate it! I am trying to install a Weyless carbon road fork (1in threadless alloy steerer) with a Syncros headset. The fork appears to have an extra "shoulder" on the steer tube, above the crown race. The steer tube O.D. is 25.4mm (as it should be) and the crown race is 26.4mm (ditto) but there is about a half-inch long section just above the crown race that is about halfway between the two, i.e. ~25.9mm. This shoulder will not fit through the fixed portion of the bottom headset cup. I think I could press it in, but this would have the same effect as welding the fork to the head tube.
The old fork I removed does not have this shoulder.
Is there something I need to know about either the fork or the headset that I'm missing here?
Eric Coppock
New Ultegra pedal?
What's the difference between the new Shimano SLP pedal and the cheaper Ultegra one? Will I be able to use the cleats from the SLP's on the Ultegras?
Pete
I haven't seen the Ultegra version of the Lance pedal, but the usual diffference in levels between similarly-designed Shimano components is the finish and bearing quality. I'd be surprised if that's not the case here. - JS
Pedal Axle Length
I am looking for advice on how to safely increase the axle length of a Look PP 296 pedal.
My request is prompted by a series of experiments using washers to progressively push my left foot outwards in the hope of allowing my foot to attain a more natural position (my left foot splays outwards and I need a fairly acute cleat angle to accommodate this tendency. Unfortunately this results in my ankle and heel rubbing against the crank and chain stay).
In essence this experiment worked resulting in a resolution of knee and hip discomfort and improved riding comfort (I used 2 metal washers decreasing by about 40% the amount of thread engaged in the crank- a risk I know). Unfortunately - and the reason I write - is that I managed to pull the pedal out of the left crank yesterday morning resulting in an interesting interaction between my face and the road surface! I note that I am not a particularly big rider 5' 9'' and 140lbs and my shoe size is a 44.
Therefore I would appreciate possible solutions to this problem be it a change of pedal, some kind of locking nut etc as I feel sure others must have had to deal with this issue.
John Williams
UK
Pedal platforms
I was reading through some tech articles on cycling news about pedals. The article about "Lance Pedals" mentions the author's preference for a wide platform pedal.
I have always wondered if there is anything to the 'wide platform' feeling. I have use (and still use) both Speedplays and Look pedals. The information I've found would suggest a wide platform shouldn't make any difference (especially considering the stiffness of cycling shoes, and carbon soled shoes). But, in the back of my mind, I can't help to think that I can notice a difference in my wide platform pedals and my other pedals.
Are there any good studies on power transfer related to pedal/cleat/shoe area? I just wonder if I can really 'feel' a difference or if it is just my imagination. Some data would help.
John Parker
Rio Rancho, NM, USA
Rolf wheel noise
My Rolf Vector Pros creak a lot going up hills. It seems to vary sometimes front sometimes rear. Is it dependent on how the wheel is put in and skewer secured? Does smoothness of the skewer or whether it is lubricated make a difference? Note that they have just been rebuilt by Trek and still make noise.
Robert Dickerson
Shimano XTR
I just picked up my new Specialized "Stumpjumper" with the new XTR group.
The cranks are a big improvement based on weight alone, but I have the same reservations about the integrated shifters. Hopefully any doubts I have will soon be put to rest after I put a few mile on it.
The first concern is one of durability. The shifter pods on the previous Rapidfire systems were somewhat protected by the brake lever housing. Now they are on top and in front. I'm hoping the first crash I have doesn't see them dangling from the handlebar. Second, I wonder about using all available fingers for manipulating the lever upward to shift. From what I've read, you are supposed to pull up on the lever with the first digit on the last 3 fingers on your hand. What if your fingers are short? It seem to me that shorter fingered individuals will begin to depress the lever toward braking while trying to shift.
Also, it seems like all your fingers need to be dedicated to the lever leaving only your thumb to span across to the bar. Having your bike dip or jamb suddenly might cause a person to lose the bar. A bad situation.
All these concerns aside, I have great faith in Shimano. I've heard that this system has been tested for 3 years now. They must be fairly certain that this is the way of the future. I'm happy to get in on the bottom floor with this new technology as long as it's truly worthy of the XTR stamp.
Dan Gorgichuk
Canada
Speed tyres
I put on my first set of Criterium Speed tyres with eager anticipation. They seemed to be a good fit on my Ksyrium Elite wheels and looked smart to boot. On my first ride I was surprised at how slow they felt. They felt like riding a mountain bike tyre on the road. As soon as you danced the bike side to side they became noisy too and others commented on this.
I persevered with the tyres relegating them to training tyres since they felt so bad to ride. A few rides later on a small descent at about 50km/h the tyre blew off the rim, wrapped around the cassette, and locked up the rear wheel. The Ksyrium rim was ground down to its base as I braked and shot in front of a car and off the road. This was one of the scariest moments in my life on a bike. End of Speed tyres for me. The boys continued riding home to go and get a car to pick me. One of them was on Speed Tyres also. Just riding along on a flat section of road his Speed tyre blew off his Mavic Open Pro Rim and he came to a grinding halt. Needless to say all Speed tyres were thrown in the bin when we arrived home. This was not an uncommon occurrence here in NZ with other experienced riders and Shop Owners throwing their Speed Tyres away.
I was disappointed to see your review rating of 4/5 on the web site. I think this is misleading. Given that Speed may have their blow-out issues fixed, they will still be a good way to slow your bike down for training and increase the road noise to give you the impression of speed. My rating: 0/5.
Russell Milliken
New Zealand
Time Impact pedals
I have not seen any Pro's riding the new Time Impact pedal. Are they a bust? Do you have any feedback on them?
Michael Price
USA
It may be that they're simply a bit new. We have a review set which will be subjected to the rigors of a Belgian Spring once Senior Editor Jeff Jones a) gets off the plane and b) puts them on his bike. - JS
Tire wear
How can you tell when your tires need to be replaced? I can see that my Michelin Axial Pros look pretty worn after about 3,500 - 4,000 miles. The middle of the tire has a smooth, worn strip, and there are also a lot of little cuts from punctures. Are these obvious warning signs that my tires need replaced, or could there still be some life left in them? I haven't had any problem with them on the road, but I'd hate to find out the hard way. Any advice you have would be appreciated.
Also, do you have any recommendations for a good, durable training tire, with incredible traction, for all weather conditions, that is lightweight enough for racing? If that is asking for too much, what should I look for in a new tire? They all look the same to me, but I'm sure there's a lot more to be aware of.
Eric Gribbell
Titanium frame
I have just bought an old stock Raleigh Titanium frame. It is a naff looking "satin" finish but at a price of £300 inc. Look carbon forks I'm not complaining. What is a problem however are the marks on the frame. They could be caused by someone holding the frame with an oily hand.
How can I remove them? Can I use metal polish or maybe a "Brillo" pad? Any suggestions gratefully received.
P.S As 2003 is a Paris-Brest-Paris year could you test some Audax kit? Maybe 25/28mm tires etc. I would love to Know how many watts mudguards absorb at Audax speeds - say 30 km/h (sad or what!)
Ray Green
Southport C.C., England
