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Tech letters for April 16, 2003
Edited by John Stevenson
Confounded by carbon fiber? Need to sound off about superlight stuff? Tech letters is the forum for your gear-related questions and opinions.
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Rapidrise with Gripshift
Campag goes electronic
Campy 10 speed upgrade
Dura-Ace 2004
Trainers
Campy 10 speed chain links
Electronic everything
Headlight computer interference
Lefty rack
Pro wheel choice
Shim vs post
Tacx IMagic and Windows XP
Tyres
Rapidrise with Gripshift
Is my Shimano Rapid rise rear derailleur compatible with the X-Ray grip shifting system I'm using? I'm getting awful shifts and the XTR is aligned properly. I'm just wondering is there's a better grip shifting system out there to use with this derailleur.
Mike
Monday, April 14 2003
Mike, this isn't a combination we've tried, so we can't make any suggestions beyond the obvious: replace the cables and in particular make sure the final loop from the frame to the rear derailleur is a long, gentle curve. This latter is a surprisingly common issue as mechanics often run a short loop when a long one actually works better.
Campag goes electronic
I wish the Campag electronics story was in the Fool's day edition - such a nonsensical idea can only come from the (much beloved) Italian brand, that really becomes more and more famous for its glorious and innovative past instead of being praised for innovative up-to-date products.
With Mavic, you had at least the possibility of putting those small shifting switches wherever you wanted on the bars. Also, there was no big and esthetically challenged battery pack on the down tube. So what's the advantage of the new system? You still have to use the ergo levers, albeit with less shifting power. So what?
I've always liked the crisp function of the levers, telling you quite unmistakably that another gear was now on. But now, you'll touch the "down" button by accident, and there's a too big gear and you have to change again. Oh dear! I've been a Campag fan and user since the early eighties, but the day will come that I sell all the stuff (including my collection of rare, interesting and sometimes silly Campag parts) and switch to Shimano.
Maybe it's time for good sense in equipment to prevail over bike romanticism.
Caspar Gebel
Germany
Wednesday, April 9 2003
Caspar, we're trying to stay open-minded. We've also been asked 'What's the point?' but until we get to actually ride the Campagnolo electronic system, we'll reserve judgement.
Campy 10 speed upgrade
I know it is possible to run 9 speed Campy Ergo levers with a Shimano 9 speed cassette, chain, and cranks, but I am curious is it possible to upgrade to Campy 10 speed without purchasing the 10 speed cranks? I know I would have to purchase a Campy 10 speed wheel, chain and cassette.
Kevin Kiddle
Illinois, USA
Wednesday, April 9 2003
Dura-Ace 2004
I read your articles related to the new Dura-Ace 2004, which is supposed to be 10 speed. Any news about the availability of the cheaper Ultegra in 10 speed version?
Alberto Piatti
Italy
Tuesday, April 15 2003
Shimano almost always trickles new features down from its top groups the following year, so I think it's a safe bet that in 2005 we'll see 10 speed Ultegra with the Hollowtech II cranks that debuted on XTR for 2003 and will be a feature of Dura-Ace 2004.
Trainers
Has anyone had experience with a Cardgirus out of north Spain?
Darrel Stickler
Wednesday, April 9 2003
Darrel, we reviewed the Cardgirus trainer last year.
Campy 10 speed chain links #1
Campy has been aware of pro issues with the connecting link for several years. I was the mechanic for a US pro squad using 10 speed a few years ago and our guys started noticing a "tick" audible when the link went thru the rear dearailleur. Upon inspection everything looked ok but the noise bothered me, especially for our sprinters who would really stress a chain. I started installing the 10 speed chain as if it were a normal chain, pushing a pin out and then back in and had no problems for a full season. Interestingly enough, when some of our foreign riders did Tour of Japan they spoke to Euro team mechanics who had been doing the same thing for two years with no problems. It is a very precise pin and considerable care must be taken to accurately center it in the body of the chain but it works very well.
Jim O'Brien
Wednesday, April 9 2003
Campy 10 speed chain links #2
I snapped my Campy chain two days ago. It also broke at the joining link (plus ripping my derailleur off). I'm not a heavy rider either (70kg or approx 154 pounds). The older version of the chain used a perma link which apparently isn't that strong. I have now ordered a new chain with the 'normal' fashion link so I have yet to see if I have problems with that. I am assuming I won't though.
Chris Pryor
Australia
Thursday, April 10 2003
Campy 10 speed chain links #3
I broke my first chain ever last year. It was the new 'hollow pin' style chain. It had some miles on it, but the chain just fell apart. Luckily I was just coasting in the pack when my chain just rolled off. Thankfully I wasn't pedaling under power.
When I repaired the chain to get me home, I noticed the hollow pin was nowhere to be found. The old school repair seems like the way to go.
Paul A. Kucharski
Thursday, April 10 2003
Electronic everything
There is an automatic bicycle out there, loads of them. They are called 'single speeds'. The engine (you) adjusts automatically to variations in load (wind, climbs, downhill riding, etc.) all without any input required. No batteries to wear out, no parts to break in the "electronic" brains of the operation. Just ride baby!
Steve Arrivo
Thursday, April 10 2003
Headlight computer interference #1
Caveat Emptor. The combination of a Cateye Wireless and a NiteRider Digital headlight in any of its settings (except the brightest) incapacitates the Cateye, i.e., no signal is received by the Cateye. Calls to Cateye and NiteRider resulted in one blaming the other's product and no useful information on which to resolve the problem.
Rechargingly yours, Chris Belec
San Francisco, CA
Monday, April 14 2003
Headlight computer interference#2
LED "headlights" messing with your computer?
Junk those flashers. These are one of the best examples of technology wrongly applied (leafblowers anyone?).
They provide an absolutely pitiful view of the road ahead (unless you're wearing some night-vision goggles), and run a distant last when compared to the "be seen" power of a fair dinkum headlight.
The failure to realise that the small scale nature of a rider and bike in a traffic stream necessitates amplifying our presence, constantly amazes and depresses me.
Next time at night when you're on the road, check out on-coming vehicles and you may realise frontward vehicle recognition comes from seeing a vehicle's light source(s) AND the area of road illuminated by them. Separate, peripherally-located headlights portray the vehicle's size and improve distance perception.
Unfortunately, the majority of lights on the market are of the 'polite light' mentality. We should be removing ALL doubt from the minds of surrounding motorists of where that pesky cyclist is. I run a Cateye Stadium 3 for my commutes, and would feel invisible with anything less. Best value peace of mind purchase I've ever made (NOW I can consider saving for those carbon cranks or other "must"-have), though I'm still waiting for the dual version to arrive!
Simon Day
Sydney, Australia
Thursday, April 10 2003
Lefty rack #1
There is a bike wheel holder from Delta (I think) that is shaped like a half moon. The curved part curls around the front part of your wheel (hooks on with three Velcro straps) and in the back part are two slots that fit nicely in to a standard fork mount quick release - like on your truck mount. I was thinking of using this on my truck with my Cannondale.
'Jimsprint'
Thursday, April 10 2003
Lefty rack #2
http://www.hurricanecomponents.com/hrpg3.html - their outstanding Lefty 'fork up' is at the bottom of the page.
James Gardner
Cannondale USA
Wednesday, April 9 2003
Lefty rack #3
Steve, The best I've found is the Sportworks TranSport. You can check them out at www.bicycleracks.com
Open Road Bicycles
Wednesday, April 9 2003
Pro wheel choice #1
There are increased aerodynamic benefits from a deeper rim section. Running the deeper rim in front would result in greater benefit than running it at the rear where the wheel is protected by the seat tube or other frame members. However, the rim is affected by side winds. The front wheel particularly so. I assume they are running this setup to prevent front wheel washing in high side winds while maintaing the aero benfits at the back.
Dr Jeroen Swart
Thursday, April 10 2003
Pro wheel choice #2
I have noticed this too. It seems to me that they are operating under the usual assumption that a crosswind makes handling unstable - hence the normal front wheel. In my opinion I think that this is without scientific basis because a slightly more aerodynamic front wheel works remarkably well in partial crosswinds (imagine the wind at a 45, 135, 225, or 315 degree angle to the front of the front wheel). The usage of an aero rear wheel should be obvious enough.
Andrew H. Meador
Thursday April 10, 2003
Pro wheel choice #3
"Me too!" In my case, a pair of Mavic Helium tubular wheels was becoming problematic: while the front wheel was strong enough as is, the rear felt too 'soft' and needed truing a little too often for my taste and eventually got dented out of round. I replaced it with a ZIPP 303 rim, using DT 14/15 spokes and Spline Drive nipples. Now, its just fine in every respect.
Why not go all the way and change both rims? These are my 'climbing' wheels, I mainly want them light; I use ZIPP 404 wheels for aero purposes and while the braking surface on the 303 rim has been substantially improved, its nice to have aluminum on the front. Both wheels work quite well together as they are, so it seems pointless to change the front as well... honor sufficiency, as they say. Probably the pros like the rigidity of the deep rear wheel, either that or they flatted at some point in the race!
Pierre C. Lacoste
Canada
Thursday, April 10 2003
Shim vs post #1
For the gentleman with the 35mm seatpost diameter: Generally a seat post that fits is better, though you said the manufacturer provided a 27.2 shim, leading me to believe that a 35mm is not avail. 27.2s are much more common. The largest I found in a supplier catalog was 32.4.
Wayne Maceyka
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Wednesday, April 9 2003
I suspect 35mm is the outside diameter of the seat tube. - JS
Shim vs post #2
I would go for the correct size of seatpost if I were you. Shims can be a nightmare - they either get stuck to the post or, worse, fall down the seat tube when you remove the post for any reason. They also make it more difficult to micro-adjust saddle height.
Apart from that, they're fine!
Chris Whiley
Wednesday, April 9 2003
Shim vs post #3
35mm? The largest I've ever seen is 31.8mm You will probably have to do a shim as a temporary fix but you should definitely get a correctly sized post. Try buffalo composites. I'm pretty sure they can do custom sizes. Expensive but worth it!
Andy Galfer
USA
Wednesday, April 9 2003
Shim vs post #4
I ride a Pegoretti Marcelo which has an 31.7 seat tube. It came with a matching carbon post. Can't recall the make. But this would be the route I would go, without a doubt.
Jay Dwight
USA
Saturday, April 12 2003
While I generally agree that a post that fits right is the best solution, I've seen some perfectly usable applications of shims. Giant shims many of its mountain bike seat tubes down to 27.2mm so that replacement seat posts will be easy to find, and uses a deep shim to properly reinforce the top of the seat tube, with a lip to stop it falling down. - JS
Tacx IMagic and Windows XP
I have my Imagic running on two XP boxes without any problems. What motherboard is installed in your computer? Do you have USB 2.0 or USB 1? I have had it on both without problems. The first place to check is in system settings and insure that your USB hub controller has been recognized.
I do agree that the IMagic needs more routes, I tend to use mine exclusively in Catalyst mode.
Steve Alexander
Kingston, ON
Friday, April 11 2003
Tyres
Regarding Jason's letter, I would have to disagree about Vittorias being the best. I rode Conti GPs and Michelins for years and rarely had any flat issues on the generally rough Colorado roads. I had read so much about the feel and quality of Vittorias that I bought some CXs. I got three flats on the first ride and about 10 in the first two weeks (100-150 mi/wk). They also felt very squirrelly on high speed descents (it is easy to hit 40mph+ here in the Rockies). My wife liked the softer ride of the Vittorias but they wear out very quickly-even for a 135lb rider like her. I found the Contis very capable in the rain and as far as price, Vittorias are always more expensive in every catalog I see-except for the closeouts on the yellow or orange ones. Needless to say, the Vittorias have been unloaded at the bike swap, my wife is on Michelins, and I have been on Vredesteins for about 18 months (so far with excellent results).
Steve F
Denver CO
Monday, April 14 2003
