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Tech letters for May 28, 2003 - Answers #3
Edited by John Stevenson
Confounded by carbon fiber? Need to sound off about superlight stuff? Tech letters is the forum for your gear-related questions and opinions.
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Shimano nine to Campagnolo ten
The best road bike
Top tube length
Simple bikes
These subjects were originally raised or dicussed in our last edition's questions and answers.
Shimano nine to Campagnolo ten #1
Have a look at Branford Bike's website, in particular their cassettes page (http://branfordbike.com/cassette/cog.html). They have all manner of conversion kits listed made by Wheels Manufacturing to swap between Campy and Shimano.
James Gray
Pymble NSW, Australia
Wednesday, May 14 2003
Shimano nine to Campagnolo ten #2
I currently run with a 9 speed Dura-Ace Groupset and Mavic Ksyrium wheels and my two daughters have Campag Centaur 10 speed.
During a recent test and indeed in race conditions we have run the 9 speed Ksyriums with the Centaur 10 speed and lock out the lowest gear.
On that basis it may be worth trying your Hed wheel with the 10 speed Chorus.
Hope it works
John Dipple
Milton Keynes
Saturday, May 17 2003
Shimano nine to Campagnolo ten #3
I've successfully used a "Wheels Manufacturing" Shimano to Campag 10sp kit on my Corima 4 spoke wheels with great success. I've even used them in a Ti frame with vertical dropouts, which is supposed to be the most difficult situation.
The "kit" consists of a remanufactured Shimano cassette with Campag spacing & a number of spacers. I found it worked best when you used the greatest number of spacers behind the cassette & still get 1.5 turns of the cassette lockring. ie you are trying to get the smallest cog on the cassette as close as you can to the dropout, but still have 1.5 turns of the cassette lockring.
Phil McKnight
Australia
Friday, May 16 2003
Shimano nine to Campagnolo ten #4
You're right. The American Classic won't work on the the Shimano wheel but will work on the Hed wheel. On most hubs, the cassette body can be changed from a Shimano to Campy; however, you may have to slightly redish the wheel after changing cassette bodies.
Jim Cushing-murray
Wednesday, May 14 2003
Shimano nine to Campagnolo ten #5
Both Marchisio and Wheels Manufacturing make a 10-speed Campagnolo-compatible cassette that fits on a Shimano 9-speed hub.
More info at http://wheelsmfg.com/technology.html#accel10 & http://anysystem.de/
Steven L. Sheffield
West Valley City, UT
Friday, May 16 2003
The best road bike #1
Jordan, dead on the mark about out-performing the "rich-boy wanna-be" on the expensive ride. Hopefully most people who read your comments will take heed and can save themselves several dollars and get much satisfaction from the ride they bought that fits right and didn't cost a small fortune.
Dale Robertson
Columbus, Georgia
Wednesday, May 21 2003
The best road bike #2
Jordan, Excellent comments. We are about the same size, weight, etc. Concur with you about the use of extravagantly expensive wheels for training purposes. May be bit old school but there is no doubt that training on heavier wheels and saving the good stuff for race day is a little extra boost. I say that with two exceptions. Sprint training on heavier wheels is fine but it is critical to sprint train on the racing wheels to get the feel. I have trained on heavy wheels then sprinted in a race to find that my back end was all over the place. The second exception is that I currently no longer race and enjoy at this point, riding the finest just for the shear pleasure of it.
My bike collection spans the decades from the early 70's to the late 90's. I share with you the pleasure of trashing the C-40, etc... on a 73 Raleigh Pro... great fun!
Roger Bogda
Wednesday, May 14 2003
The best road bike #3
I don't think it is possible for any rider to objectively determine which frame material or bike rides best. First, if you purchase an expensive bike, cognitive dissonance comes into play. That is, your mind will tell you that it is the best because it is expensive. This is akin to the Scotch whiskey syndrome: if it is expensive, it must be good.
To have an objective test, you'd have to be blindfolded and ride several bikes. This would all have to be repeated several times to verify the results. When riders were blindfolded while riding a bike on a trainer with different crankarm lengths, they made surprising choices and most did not know when the right and left crankarm lengths were different.
So, we can argue all we want, but in the end, the marketers win. You will like a bike that is expensive and your preference for a certain frame material will depend on who you believe.
Jim Cushing-murray
Wednesday, May 14 2003
The best road bike #4
Mr. Sagalowsky makes some good points about components and I tend to agree with him about people who buy Colnago C40's and Campy Record (but I will admit, this stereotype is not accurate of all people buying such products). Colnagos seem to create strong reactions, positively or negatively, I think primarily because of aesthetics. Colnagos really stand out, partly because "Colnago" is displayed about 20 times on the frame, and partly because of the loud paint jobs. However, I would like to respond to some of the issues Mr. Sagalowsky raises.
Do people need to ride Campy Record? Of course not, but hey, the majority of people reading this column live in non-communist countries where they are free to buy want they want. If you have the money and cycling is your passion I do not see why anyone should care what you buy. The vast majority of people would do just fine on lower-level choices, but what does that have to do with anything? What is wrong with wanting to buy the best? It is no different than buying a car. If I want to buy an Audi S8, should I first be required to show that I possess driving skills equal to the stunt driver in the movie "Ronin"? Of course not. From Mr. Sagalowsky's viewpoint, it is almost as if he is saying people should have to pass some sort of skills test to ride top-level equipment.
If people are being honest, everyone has an ego. One way to satisfy your ego is buy purchasing the best and most expensive toys. Is it lame to have to buy the best in order to satisfy your ego demands? Well, yes it is lame, but nonetheless people (including Mr. Sagalowsky- a Look KX with Chorus is not exactly what I would call a "blue collar" ride) buy products for this reason all the time. Just deal with it and move on. We all have weaknesses, physically and psychologically.
By the way, people who buy top line bikes and remove the decals to show they are "too cool" or have "too much integrity" to flaunt the brand names and labels are just as lame as people who buy based on name alone, because by going through the hassle of removing the decals they show by their actions they too are obsessed about what others think of them. Would I buy a Colnago C40 in team Rabobank colors or any other paint scheme? No, I wouldn't. Not because of performance issues (it is a quality ride), I just don't like these bikes from an aesthetic point of view and I also don't like the fact that you see them everywhere, along with Litespeeds, which are like Toyota Camry's around here. My dog even owns a Litespeed. Personally I like De Rosas, Merckxes and Looks - particularly Mr. Sagalowsky's choice, the Look KX. Why? Performance mainly. But if I am being honest, also because I prefer these bikes for aesthetic reasons as well and also because it strokes my ego every time I hop on my De Rosa, and yes, I will admit that I am somewhat lame for this reason. But at least I am secure enough to admit this.
Blake Terry
Kansas City
Wednesday, May 14 2003
The best road bike #5
San Marco Strada is the only saddle I will use - fits like a glove.
Kevin Petrone
Wednesday, May 14 2003
The best road bike #6
Well, since Jordan has thrown in his two cents I will too. Geometry is absolutely everything, and fit is extremely important too. The characteristics of your body are not just limited to the length of your bones but your flexibility too. I'm riding a Fondriest Status Carb which is 52cm - why? Because I can just about do the splits and can ride in the drops on this bike whenever I damn please. The seat angle is aggressive but not extremely so and the steel and carbon mix is great for my 5ft 9in/150lb frame. I frankly do not buy much of the techno garbage out there. If you're buying a bike you should try everything and find out what really suits you - or else you'll spend a season doing yoga to recover from illiotibial band syndrome as I did this year.
Alex Turnbull
Wednesday, May 14 2003
The best road bike #7
Hey, lighten up.
I'm a 40 year old Euro poseur and proud of it. I recently bought a Colnago Carbonissimo (don't worry it was black, not orange), Campy Record, FSA carbon etc. Every time I go for a ride, I get a big smile on my face, because I simply love riding my bike. I really could care less who finishes ahead (most people) or behind me be it on a beater or a Pinarello. Because, I'd be willing to bet my last carbon fiber that I'm having as much fun as you. That's supposed to be the point, isn't it?
Peter Gruber
Swarthmore, PA
Wednesday, May 14 2003
The best road bike #8
Jordan David Sagalowsky wrote:
"3) Buy good components that you like. I bought Chorus because I like Campagnolo way better than Shimano but recognize the fact that nobody ever actually needs Record. Furthermore, even the pros rode Chorus over record at Roubaix. A good rule of thumb: if pros refuse to ride something (especially wheels and components) at a race like Flanders or Gent-Wevelgem with a few cobbles, than you should be skeptical of training on it every day for a few seasons."
Jordan, I think the pro teams that didn't ride Record at Roubaix (etc.) were not thinking of reliability issues, but COST issues. It is considerably cheaper to throw away a worn out Chorus rear derailleur after one race than a Record rear derailleur. I think they were expecting significant wear damage to whatever components were used in such brutal conditions and wanted to save some money.
Travis Hartman
Wednesday, May 14 2003
The best road bike #9
As an owner of an orange C40 I feel I have to respond to Mr Sagalowski's anti-Colnago rant. I think he's a more than a little mixed up. First let's get clear that 'best' is a superlative and doesn't equate with best value. Next he talks about a bike owner with 'no personality, no definite presence as a rider, and no idea what equipment he really needs'. To me this means all those Lancealikes on their OCLVs. It won the tour so they bought the one that the local shop happened to have in their sale but is two sizes too small. People buy C40s because it's not a default choice. A few pros ride orange ones, but I've never met anyone else riding a Rabobank C40 round the park. You need to make the effort to find a shop that sells them, choose your own components, save up for a few more months and finally get a bike you really want that will make you happy for a long time. Mr Sagalowski will have upgraded quite a few times before I part with mine.
Andrew Salmon
London, UK
Wednesday, May 14 2003
The best road bike #10
Ferdinand, you are so right about the San Marco Rolls. I have one on every bike, including MTB, cross, and tandem. I have a few extras I'm hoarding for the day when San Marco pulls the plug on the Rolls. I'm riding a 17lb steel & carbon technowonder these days, but my arse still sits on a Rolls. BTW, I think its a great looking saddle.
John Poulson
Marin County, California
Thursday, May 15 2003
Top tube length #1
Your only real option is to fit a shorter stem - as moving the seat forward may compromise your pedaling position. Note that fitting a shorter stem can significantly 'quicken' the steering feel of the bike.
Duncan Murdoch
London, UK
Thursday, May 15 2003
Top tube length #2
Things are not always as they seem. In the bike industry the only "standards" are that there aren't any. Normally, a "54cm" frame would not have a 56cm top tube. However, Merida measures their frames center to center, meaning the frame "size" would be 55.5cm more or less if measured center to top. In addition, it's got a sloping top tube, meaning the standover height will be even taller than a typical 56cm center to top frame. If you do indeed fit on a typical 54cm center to top bike, their "52cm" size would be more appropriate, and this shortens the "cockpit length" by 1cm.
Mark Hickey
Thursday, May 15 2003
Top tube length #3
How long is your current stem? Most bike fitting corrections involve the use of "proper length" stems to make the frame fit your upper body. If the current stem is 100mm or greater, a shorter stem could easily correct the TT length discrepancy.
'Huskerdu4'
Thursday, May 15 2003
Simple bikes #1
Here in the USA Bianchi offers an inexpensive track bike. I think it is not really up to competitive use, it has a drilled fork crown for the front brake that you'll surely need to ride it on the road and has a freewheeling rear sprocket. These have proven popular with bike messengers in urban areas.
Danny Tanaka
Wednesday, May 14 2003
Simple bikes #2
Singlespeed bikes are fantastic! There are many singlespeed mountain bike and track frames available, and few custom builders who can build you whatever you want. Funnily enough, I happen to be one of those people - I run Thylacine Cycles here in Melbourne, and have been zooping around town on a singlespeed for some years now. Feel free to give me a call on 03 8309 0005 and we'll have a chat.
'wgdesign'
Thursday, May 15 2003
Simple bikes #3
Ben, you'll be much better off with a bike with a selection of gears that will allow you to work in a target heartrate range in most conditions, hills, headwinds etc.
You'll be able to buy a decent quality recreational/fitness bike for under $500 at most bike shops in Australia. It'll probably last 4-6 thousand km before needing major work.
I suggest you read up on heartrate and intensity work before you go making life hard for yourself! Here's a good site to start with:
http://www.geocities.com/kznmba/Articles/TrainingBasics.htm
http://www.geocities.com/kznmba/NBCW/HAF.htm
Carl
Australia
Friday, May 16 2003
Simple bikes #4
Finding new single-speed bikes here in the states is pretty easy, and every week there are several retro-fits sold on eBay. But down in Oz I'd think your best bet is to go to a good, service-oriented bike shop and ask them to fix you up a single-speed. They're quite likely to have an old frame lying around in your size, or know where to find one. Chances are that frame will be a steel one between 10 and 25 years old. Reason? You need horizontal rear dropouts in order to tension the chain, unlike derailleur bikes which tension the chain with the springs in the rear derailleur, and for about the last decade most road frames have had vertical dropouts. And don't sweat the steel. The weight savings with Alu are less an issue that the comfort and ride of steel. Anyway, by selecting single-speed componentry you're already saving 1-2kg vs the derailleur crowd. Track frames (if they have a fork drilled for a front brake - and you WILL WANT one of those) are often utilized, too, though they have the minor disadvantage of a more vertical geometry than road frames, resulting in a less comfortable ride. Good luck.
Carl
Princeton NJ USA
Sunday, May 18 2003
Simple bikes #5
Fuji made such a bike last year. I think it retails for around US$600.
Rob Coapman
Wednesday, May 21 2003
Simple bikes #6
Check into some of the bikes equipped with Shimano 7 speed internal rear hubs. Low maintenance low weight and high reliability. One bike that comes to mind is the Bianchi Milano.
Eric Johnson
Saturday, May 24 2003
Simple bikes #7
You are, I suspect, going to get a lot of responses to this one given (a) the increase in popularity of single speeds and (b) the fact that people who ride single speeds tend to be quite passionate about it.
Your choices would seem to be:
(1) buy a new bike. Cannondale have a single speed in their range this year as (I think) do Bianchi: Airborne will do you one over the 'net. Or you can something more exotic, like a custom built frame from Seven. This is the most expensive option;
(2) buy a second hand aluminium bike/frame (god knows there are enough of them around) and get a chain device (like a Surly Singulator) which bolts into the frame at the rear D hanger and keeps the necessary chain tension - then all you need to do then is buy a rear sprocket (think around 2:1, so if you are using a 32 or 34 ring at the front you will probably want a 16 in the rear) some spacers to replace the rear cassette, a new chain (get a BMX one) and a front chain ring. This is the simplest and usually the cheapest option;
(3) get a second hand steel frame and take it to your local framebuilder so they can replace the vertical dropouts with horizontal ones so you can run a single speed wheel in the back. The problem with this is that quality second hand steel frames (the ideal being the old Kona Explosif which came in 853) are hard to come by at a price where you would want to torch off the drop outs. Check out http://www.yesweareontheweb.com/outcast/index.html.
I should warn you that single speeding is a slippery slope: before you know it you will find yourself debating whether track hubs on your ss makes you more "pure".
Brendan Moylan
London
Wednesday, May 14 2003
Simple bikes #8
It's quite simple: www.on-one.co.uk. They have frames in good-old chromoly and even titanium. Good value too. But if you favour aluminium... well, some might say you're missing the whole point of a single-speed... :)
Neeeeek
London UK
Wednesday, May 14 2003
Simple bikes #9
Ben Fodder asked for advice on a simple bike, preferably a single speed. Ben was nervous about older bikes and wanted the benefit of modern chains and frames.
Ben, you might do well to reconsider a few of the assumptions behind your search. First, although single speed bikes are simple and light, a multigeared bike is not necessarily overly complicated and cumbersome for your purposes. In most areas a multigeared bike is more suitable for general fitness riding, as it allows you to shift gears to maintain a high power output regardless of the terrain. Sometimes with a single geared bike one is forced to choose a reasonably easy gear to allow for hill climbing, which can preclude the rider from training really hard on flat roads and downhills, especially for a beginner who may not yet have the ability to spin the legs at very high RPMs.
Next, there really aren't huge advantages to modern chains and frames. Chains today are slightly better than old ones, but they can be easily and cheaply upgraded. The best modern frames are lighter than older frames, but they sometimes sacrifice versatility, durability, and reparability compared to older steel frames. Many new frames will not accept the wider tires that would be well suited to your desire to ride on light trails as well as roads. The weight difference is negligible for all but the serious hilly racing situations. Good quality steel frames don't rust unless they are outrageously abused - chip the paint and let it sit outside in the snow for ten winters. Generally a lugged steel frame is the most durable of all frame materials.
I suspect that the cheapest solution for you would be to find a older secondhand steel bike, preferably with friction shifting on the downtube. That will keep your bike simple and is much easier to maintain than the combined brake lever/shifters that are found on most modern bikes. In the U.S. such bikes are out of favor and are easy to come by on ebay for about $400. Take the bike to your local shop and spend about $100 having it inspected and tuned. You'll have a simple, realible, versatile bike.
If you like the sound of this solution but you're nervous about getting a secondhand bike, I'd specifically recommend the Romulus from Rivendell Bicycles (www.rivendellbicycles.com). The Romulus is a steel frame with simple, durable components, and comes with somewhat wider tires than you'll normally see on most entry level road bikes (good for paths). It's perfectly suited for the type of riding that you'll like to do, and it's easy to maintain. The people at Rivendell are very helpful, feel free to call them and they'll discuss anything about bikes that you'd like to know. They've done lots of business internationally. Another good solution for you might be to get a cyclocross bike and then put road tires on it - it will be more durable and simpler than most standard road bikes, and you'll have the flexibility to ride on paths or light trails.
If you have your heart set on a single speed, there are several options. Rivendell also makes a single speed frame, called the Quickbeam, but it's expensive. They would sell you a complete single speed bike if you contact them. Also, Surly Cycles makes a single speed specific frame, called the Steamroller. Check it out at www.surlycycles.com. These aren't usually sold as complete bikes, so you'd probably have to do some work on it. Surly's Australia distributor is Dirtworks bicycles, email dirtworks@ozemail.com.au. Finally, check out www.32sixteen.com/mainie.html, a site dedicated to single speed bikes. There you can find tips on how to build up your own single speed from secondhand bike parts. But I suspect that if you have such an aversion to bike maintenance, you'll not be interested in taking on the project of creating your own single speed.
I hope that this information is helpful. With your attitude and enthusiasm, you're sure to have a great time on whichever bike you choose.
Mark Slavonia
San Francisco
Wednesday, May 14 2003
Simple bikes #10
A single speed bike will not give you a better workout. It will most likely turn you off of riding.
Riders use gears which allow them to produce the most power. If you can push down with 80 pounds of force, a slower cadence of , say 50 rpm's, allows you to apply that 80 pounds 50 times a minute. Change gears to get 100 rpm's, and you can apply that 80 lbs. 100 times per minute, Hence more power to the wheel in a given time.
So gears can let you produce more power, hence more of a workout at higher RPM's.
Don't be put off by gears. They work very well now, not like the dark days of our youth. A bike with gears, sized and set up for you (not some kid) may hook you into riding. A single speed will leave you wondering, why do people like this sport?
Jeffrey A. Ogren
Wednesday, May 14 2003
Simple bikes #11
I recently bought an Avanti Pista track bike in order to train with a fixed gear on the road. They retail for $999 in Australia, although I'm sure you could pick one up a little cheaper by shopping around (I got mine at BikeForce). The frame is (rather solid) aluminium with a chromoly fork.
In order to make it safe for the road I had to add a front brake and brake levers. The forks need to be drilled (I didn't tell you to do this remember - do it at your own risk!) in order to attach the brakes.
As for the ride, it is a bit more coarse compared to my Avanti Corsa Carbonio road bike, but still not too bad on most road surfaces. One bonus is this bike comes with a double sided hub, so you can put two gears on, in case you need to change mid-ride(in the case of a strong wind, when you turn around into it!).
Good luck with the fixed gear training, and don't worry too much when people think you are a freak!
Rory Murray
Perth, Australia
Thursday, May 15 2003
Simple bikes #12
Most single speed bikes are 26" wheel and most track frames are 700c. That being said, you can find some frames out there that run 700c tires with brake mounts. My area of the country isn't bicycle friendly so I use a single speed road bike instead of a track bike on the road. I don't trust the drivers and the thought of getting into a sticky situation without brakes doesn't appeal to me.
That being said there are a few good frame builders out there that make some nice 700c frames for single speed. Soma Fabrications (www.somafab.com) or the Surly Steamroller jump to mind. I am sure there are others options out there for you.
Aaron, Bicycle Pedaler
Wichita, KS
Wednesday, May 14 2003
